Phil Schaal in Hartford, CT.

Phil Schaal’s been killing it recently. In the past year alone, this Connecticut climber has ticked 15 V13s, including some rare repeats of hard East Coast lines—The Book of Bitter Aspects (V13) in Bradley, Conn., Agent Orange (V13) in the Gunks, and the Chelsea Smile (V13), Ty Landman’s new sit start to Divine Providence in Lincoln Woods.

But pissing on hard blocs hasn’t come easy for Phil, who’s gone from struggling to do a single pull-up (OK that was awhile ago) to world-class send status. His secret? Pure determination.

Phil ranks Roses and Bluejays in Great Barrington, Mass., among the best problems on the East Coast. “The rock is amazing, really fine-grain granite, kinda crimpy. It’s a pretty standout line. It’s seen a lot of ascents but as far as East Coast quality it’s probably top three. Chelsea Smile you get on and it’s like ‘Ow it hurts’.”

Phil’s boulder-crushing rampage is about to pick up speed as he heads for Colorado’s high alpine gems this summer.

Phil Schaal—Bradley

C-Note: You just climbed your first 5.14, Supernova, how’s it feel?

Phil: Yeah, my first four-bolt 5.14. It was long overdue. I tried Supernova a lot like three years ago and kept falling on the last move. This time I nailed it. It felt good finally to get that confirmed 5.14.

C-Note: Yeah, you made it look pretty easy.

Phil: I was pretty stoked. I would have been upset if it felt the same as three years ago.

Phil sends Supernova in Rumney, NH.

C-Note: How did you start climbing?

Phil: I started climbing when I was 15 in the gym. I couldn’t even do a pull-up. 5.9 was a challenge. I remember just barely getting to the top of this slightly steep wall, using all the holds and stemming on the other wall, and it was only like 18 feet tall.

C-Note: So, you’ve definitely improved since then…

Phil: Yeah. I’ve definitely improved since then. The first year and a half I just climbed so much. I got the point where I could do 20 pull-ups. After two solid years I could climb 5.12. Just out of pure tenacity—it didn’t come easy.

Phil in Bradley, CT.

C-Note: So what’s the secret to your recent comeback?

Phil: I wouldn’t say a comeback, but I broke through a huge barrier last summer. I think a lot of it was strategic. I definitely feel stronger, but it’s not like night and day strength. Definitely training, strategy and conservation.

C-Note: What do you mean, conservation?

Phil: I have all these little games I play with myself, little thoughts. I try to relate the skin on my finger tips to my body’s condition. When I wear my skin down til it’s really thin, I know my body’s messed up. So, I try not to let my skin get too damaged. I limit myself to a few tries and stop when I’m still feeling fairly fresh. I try to think about the next day. When I was younger I’d just go at it and get completely devastated, not taking any body conservation into account.

Phil assessing his tips in Lincoln Woods, RI.

C-Note: What’s your mental approach to climbing?

Phil: I’m definitely hard on myself. I don’t really know why. I look for little successes in climbing to make up for the fact that I didn’t have a great success that day. I make smaller goals, just being real realistic with myself. Like today, if I don’t feel so great, but I make a move further, it’s a good day. Looking for incremental success helps me avoid negative thoughts.

C-Note: How do you train?

Phil: My training’s always evolving. There’s not one thing I ever do regularly. Lately, I’ve been climbing 4-5 days in a row with easy days in between. If I’m strategic, I can climb at my limit, fourth and fifth day on. Sixth months ago, I wouldn’t even be able to think of that. I try to do one arms, but I don’t lift weights or anything. I like to campus.  I try to keep my fingers strong on a crimpy problems. And I keep my sessions short, like two hours.

Phil in Bradley, CT.

C-Note: So you don’t really have a routine?

Phil: I kinda feel like, If you get a routine and then something’s off, it can tweak your head. Things will always be changing. I want to climb at my limit under any condition.

C-Note: I hear you’re pretty superstitious, black cats and stuff. Got any climbing rituals?

Phil: Whenever I kick my chalk bag over and chalk spills out everywhere, I usually have a decent day. Like today, I walked up to Satan’s Choice, spilled my chalk all over the slab and I had a pretty good day. I have a lot of little weird things like that. I’m constantly knocking on my forehead to make sure bad things don’t happen to me.

Phil on Satan's Choice in Rumney, NH.

C-Note: What’s your climbing diet?

Phil: I don’t skimp out things. I eat a lot of candy, I’m addicted to sugar—gummy bears, anything gummy. My favorite candy is peanut m&ms, and my favorite Cliff Bar is Banana Nut Bread.

C-Note: How do you balance climbing and real-life responsibilities?

Phil: I’ve definitely sacrificed work and academic ambitions to climb as much as I can. My credit card statement will prove that, but I still feel like it’s worth it. I guess there’s a point I might be in the poorhouse collecting welfare just so I can go climbing.

Phil on Bradley, CT.

C-Note: What about climbing and love?

Phil: My girlfriend, Nikki Keeney, and I have been on the road a lot recently—she loves climbing. When we were in Hueco was working Sex After Death and climbed some other V7s. I like watching her improve and get motivated to climb. It’s fun ‘cuz we’re both into the same thing.

C-Note: So you two are on the bust-ass/road trip cycle?

Phil: Lately we’ve been working a lot but yeah, we kinda live that work- climb, work-climb lifestyle. Having Nikki in my life is a real positive, she’s my psychiatrist when I’m stressing. She’s always there to give me the reality check I need.

C-Note: What’s your home crag?

Phil: Bradley, definitely. It’s 20 min from where I grew up. I was 16 when I started going out there, so it’s been eleven years. I’ve probably spent like 6000 days climbing there, and counting. So many, so many days.

C-Note: East Coast vs West Coast climbing—what’s the difference?

Phil: Climbing in the North East generally isn’t as open as out West. It’s definitely not as accepted in C.T. anyways. People don’t really understand rock climbing that much. I don’t know if it’s just the Hartford area. Bradley, my local bouldering spot has been closed for the past 12 years. And yeah, I’m guilty of trespassing or whatever I’m doing, but I’ll be the first one to admit it. I mean, what the fuck am I supposed to do?

C-Note: Uh, trespass.

Phil: You have to take some risks in the North East. If there’s really nice climbing right off the road and we’re not hurting anyone, sometimes we just go for it. But I guess it’s like that everywhere. And the weather definitely quite unstable.

Phil and Dan Yagmin in Rumney, NH.

C-Note: Do you prefer rope-climbing or bouldering?

Phil: I guess you could say I’m a product of my surroundings. There’s tons of bouldering here in C.T. There’s also good trad climbing that’s kind of scary. I used to guide for EMS in the Gunks. I really like trad climbing and I love sport climbing but Rumney is so far away.

C-Note: Who has influenced your climbing the most?

Phil: Climbing with Ty Landman and Nick Sherman on Robyn and Theo’s wall last year definitely made me stronger. Climbing with a bunch of different talented climbers really helps, pulling motivation, watching how other people train. In Boulder, there are a lot of people really serious about training. Climbing with Ty over the past couple years has been really motivating, but I don’t wanna give him too much credit.

C-Note: Future plans?

Phil: Return visit to Boulder looks positive. I’d like to see if I could do Jade, the Diamond would be fun too. I’d like to at least visit Rifle, never been. I just wanna kinda get back to that Rocky Mountain High.

Phil and Dan Yagmin leaving Bradley, CT.

Phil, Hartford, CT.

Like super hot women that are really friggin cool? So do we, that’s why we celebrate Vanessa Compton as our P&C Woman of the Year. This teacher by day, creative artist and rock climbing crusher by all other times of day or night, has been a fixture on the front range scene for some time. However, come this summer, she hits the road with a vengeance, guard your projects because she WILL hike them. We chose Vanessa as our Woman of the Year because she embodies everything that is cool to us.

Interview: Adam Peters (Bronco)

Photos: Caroline Treadway (C-Note) and Vanessa Compton

Okay, Name?
Vanessa Michele Compton

Nicknames?
Vanarchy (high school) V-card (Joe Kinder)

V-Card? Haha, there has to be story behind that one.
I’d rather not think about that…

Hometown? Current town?
Grew up in middle of nowhere Vermont, livin’ in Boulder bubble-land now till summertime.

What’s the plan for summertime?
Seclude myself in a little art studio in northern VT and make some killer collages, climb on the east coast, then maybe Font and then climb in Hueco Nov-Feb…if anyone has a cool trailer lemme know.

That sounds like quite the perfect little plan you’ve concocted for yourself. Vermont, good. East Coast climbing, good. Font, way good. Hueco, way good. I don’t see how that can fail.
I’m so siked, never been on a climbing trip for more than 10 days. I think a 365-day trip sounds perfect right now. Um, yeah.

The Transaction

So, pretty much, you’re a bad-ass artist. Have you always been interested in creating art?
My dad is a professional singer/songwriter and my mom is visual artist so i guess it’s in the blood. I always was the dorky art kid. Climbing has made me actually resemble an athlete which is hilarious to me.

I can’t really see you as a dorky art kid, but whatever. Being an artist and a climber do you see any correlations between the two? And can I get a pic of you in dorky art kid mode?
Both put you into your head and both allow for creativity and personal gumption. I like how if your art sucks or your climbing sucks, there is really no one to blame but yourself. That edge keeps me on my toes. Ooooooo, a dorky art kid pic? Do I get something in return? I keep falling in love with different mediums and different music to make art to. Right now it’s making collages to La Mala Rodriguez & Sigur Ros.

That’s what’s nice about art and climbing, when you get tired of one genre you can focus efforts on a new one.
Just like friends.

Wow, does that mean you’re just going to drop me as a friend someday?
Pretty much, sorry man.

I’m a little hurt.
I’ll make it up on Whiskey Wednesday.

Ten Digit Dialing, Clear Creek Canyon.

You’re on. What’s it feel like to be a freaking badass climber too?
Hmmm, let me use my imagination because it is so not my reality. I rather prefer to surround myself around those who are badass. That way I can be cool by association. For example, on Sunday when I was top-roping in Eldo (hot, I know) and watched Alex Honnold cruise “Evictor” while I was hanging on the anchors from above. Awesome. I went up with Pete Takeda (my new favorite American) and Caine Delacy (my new favorite Aussie) and my girls Abbey Smith and Colette McInerney.

That sounds like a fun crew and good odds for Pete and Caine. So, Eldo, traditional climbing, any interest?
I’ve done that on and off since I started climbing. Trad leading is friggin’ awesome but not something I’ve really delved hardcore into, past epicing on various Eldo moderates. I probably would’ve been safer soloing.

Well, Eldo lends itself to epics. I think everyone has an Eldo story. What are you psyched on right now, climbing-wise?
Basically just Hueco. I’m so spoiled and close-minded right now. My heart is in Hueco, bad…if you haven’t been there than I can’t even talk to you.

Hueco is, plain and simple, the shit. What is it about Hueco that makes it so good?
There is something indescribable about the way I feel when i arrive there. Oh wait, there is a word to describe it, it’s “le shit”. It takes a couple hours to get back into my Hueco-ness, but I love the climbing, and I love the people there. The locals (Charles, Gleather, Ricky-o, Trevor my beautiful angel, the crazy random Spaniards) and the vista tortilla and avocado lunches, and not having to be embarrassed about drinking Hornitos on a regular basis.

Awesome. My sentiments exactly and I learned a new French word.
Can I add one more thing?

Please.
I love how (if you don’t wanna project) you can just go off by yourself and climb sickest highball VO’s in da world.

Yep, some of my best days in Hueco have been pulling moderates and having a blast doing so.
Sho nuf.

Are you a big project person? As in, you always have an obsession over some problem or route?
I go in and out of that mode. I try to keep a healthy balance of sike-ness and just enjoying the present moment. but of course I can get wrapped up in the game, I’m still trying to work on that, like I still look at 8a when no one is looking.

Haha, who doesn’t?
A lot of people, they’re just too cool to be noticed.

So, you recently spent some time in Africa. Tell us a little about that.
Um, I went to Ghana this summer to study palm wine guitar with an amazing teacher. His name is Adja Koo Nimo. I also helped my former professor Kwasi Ampene with his sabbatical research. It was so good. I friggin’ love West Africa. The people there have the biggest hearts in the world. and the best food (check out cheebu jen and foo fuo!). I had last been there in 2003 when I did a semester studying the kora and wolof in Senegal. Dakar is the best place to go clubbing, they know what’s up.

I’m guessing that the kora and wolof are instruments?
The kora is the West African version of a harp/lute and wolof is a language spoken by lots of people, mostly in Senegal and the Gambia.

What got little girl from nowhere VT to get so psyched on West African music?
The lack of pretension and the quality of musicianship is bar none. The music exudes such sheer joy and a love of life. African music always gets lumped into the “world music” category and I hope to do my part to break that myth. Also, I love how silly white people look dancing, it’s hilarious!!!

So, sounds like you are going back to Africa in the future?
Definitely sometime in the future. I just gotta weigh that love with my love of climbing which sometimes seems so flighty in comparison. I always come back from traveling super weak but psyched nonetheless.

You run with a pretty HOT crew of female climbers. lucky!
I know, I am constantly checking out my hawt hawt friends, like seriously checkin’ them out. It must be hard to be a guy, at least you can kinda get away with it.

Or look like a complete idiot with our jaws dropped and drooling. Okay, so you are also a teacher, how’s that?
Well, it’s really cool because I’m constantly learning. It’s like being paid to be a student and I get to teach my favorite things: visual art, music and climbing. Some days you feel like you actually have changed the world for the better, that’s the shit, but it’s weird because I’m old in my kiddos’ eyes, like they are mildly horrified when they discover I didn’t grow up when there were dinosaurs or that I am on Facebook. It’s like I constantly have to prove that I’m cool.

Ever had a student with a crush on Miss Compton?
Hopefully they are stealth enough that I will never find out, but 2 of my awesome students were super psyched when they found out that I knew Jason (Kehl), and then they got to meet him, sick! Changing the world, I know…

One skullet at a time.
Shout out to his bum knee, heal up bub!

Hueco Ranch House crew.

True. Did you see the Spanish version of Jason in Hueco?
No, but I heard about it. Did they really look alike?

Just hair-do-wise.
I’ve been considering the dreadie skullet look myself, I really think it will help instill fear in my students

I just bought new clippers, so you’re in luck. what time you coming over?
Um, never?

Lame, you talk a big game.
I know

So, Vanessa Compton, artist extraordinaire, rock climbing killa, West African music/culture aficionado, bomb ass teacher woman, Hot climbing female crew member, and Hueco lover, how do you feel about being P&C’s woman of the year?
What?@!#@#$^&^& Puta madre!

Haha, don’t let it go to your head, but it’s pretty fucking cool.
I’m weeping…

Tears of joy.
Sickness! Thanks buddy!

Anything you want to say to your fan base here in PimpinandCrimpin land? Last words from V-Card?
Life is our greatest resource.

Jeremy Collins

Chances are, if you’ve picked up a climbing mag in the past ten years or so you have no doubt seen Jeremy Collin’s art work. Not only does he monopolize the creative genius you see gracing your magazine pages, but he stinking rips too! Haling from Kansas City, this dynamo is a first ascent slayer, grabbing FA’s from Arkansas sandstone to Black Canyon granite. Always psyched for what’s next, Jer can do no wrong in our book. I pulled him away from what I like to call “arting” to do an interview with P&C. Enjoy…

Interview: Adam Peters (Bronco)

Prints:  Jer Collins

Photos:  Andrew Chasteen and Lucas Marshall

Guten Morgen.

Morgensalitudes

Interview time! We’ll start with basics: Name, DOB, Residence, occupation.
Jeremy “Jer” Collins. 11-04-76. Kansas City, Misery. Artist.

Ever paint/draw/sculpute a nude? Need a model?
I escaped art school before they made me. And yeah, I could use a model for a children’s book I am working on. You can be the large purple octopus with white gloves. I got out of school before they gave me access to naked people outside the dorms.

So, basically you’re the “it” man for all things beautiful and arty in the climbing industry. Is this the industry you’ve always seen yourself working in?
Not exactly. I was shooting for body-scarring-tribal-dance-opera-performance artist, but there was an opening in climbing-bum-artist-hippy. The climbing shoe fit.

Skills! Nice pun.
It puns in the family

Wow! Speaking of family, you’ve been working on one. How old is the little one now?
Zion Michael Ray is almost 2 1/2 yrs old. He’s not a very good belayer yet, but he loves dive-bombing the crashpads. My wife Tricia and I first climbed together in Zion National Park, and kept coming across the name. When it came time to name the offspring, we knew what it was gonna be. Poor kid. everyone thinks he’s rasta, or a Zionist.

I thought you just liked the Matrix trilogy.
Why is it that everyone your age has never heard of Zion before the Matrix? It’s a tragedy. It’s the Promised Land!

Oh, I’ve heard of it, but the Matrix just made it cool. So, your wifey does a bit of rock climbing too?
Yeah, but we have some differing styles. I like being miserable, bloody and cold, on a grade VI in the back-country whereas she likes staying in nice beds with safe, bolted crags, and a mocha-latte before putting on her harness. She’s crazy like that. She went through some serious suffering to prove her love to me. Once we got hitched she ditched the big wall experience. I don’t blame her. I honestly don’t know how she puts up with my climbing.

Damn. Sounds like she’s seen the light, when will you shape up?
Funny. I hear that question a lot, I was gonna ask you the same thing

Speaking of suffering, word is you’re heading south to Patagonia soon. Psyched?
Yeah, finally! As for climbing, we will see. Arriving as a climber, I am dependent on the weather to cooperate, but as an artist, I will be satisfied with whatever happens. Patagonia is an area that has called to me for some time. It’s finally time to answer. As for suffering, we will see.

As an artist that climbs or a climber that arts, what’s the similarities between the two? For the sake of sounding like Ron Kauk, climbers seem to express a bit of art by moving, whether that means alpine, sport, bouldering or whatever.
You suffer to advance in both, and neither pay well. So to be obsessed with both says something about what you need out of life. If the bottom line is the bottom line, then you will bottom out. I like what Ron Kauk said– “The way that I see it, there are two worlds: the world where nothing is sacred but money, and the other world, where everything is sacred.”

I agree. So, you mean you’re not rolling up to the crag in a Lexus and wearing some sort of bling from all your art sales and climbing feats?
Ha! My European sports car is a VW van.

Hippie.
More like Yippie (yuppie-hippy). It’s a gold edition 2005 Eurovan. It’s my dream ride with all the modern conveniences, like heat for the Mrs. and the toddler.

Jer on the FA of Dark Divine 12c, Sam

On the subject of climbing feats, you’ve done a ton of route development. Tell me a little about the appeal of first ascents and some of your favorite/most proud lines.
It’s the natural progression as an artist to feel the drive to express. Whether it’s canvas, paper, rock, or building my mashed potatoes into a bust of Abraham Lincoln. Some of my proudest ascents are ground-up, onsight, or second go with minimal to no bolts with just one friend along for the ride. Maybe there are harder lines I’ve sent, but the ones I am most proud of didn’t take a lot of effort to send, but to envision. You stand on the ground and think–I bet I could send that, but just barely. Being on the ground and having that 50-75% probability of sending is a good place for me to be. When the outcome is 100% probable, the adventure disappears, and I get bored quick. Some of my favorites are Supernatural at Sam’s Throne, Arkansas, and Sistine Reality, in the Black Canyon. Neither with bolts, and both very expressive and satisfying for me.

Mashed Potato art and ground up boltless climbing = Awesome.
I like my routes like my hamburger–ground up, spicy and well done.

For a dude that is so psyched on developing routes and climbing what’s up with the decision to live in a rockless, bbq loving city?
It’s complicated. But some of the best parts about being in the Midwest is the price of homes, ease of access to both coasts, and I have a bit of a love affair with Arkansas sandstone. Plus the BBQ cannot be beat.

Jer on Ra, Wichita Mtns., Oklahoma

Let’s be honest, Arkansas sandstone is legit, kinda like Oklahoma granite is legit.
You didn’t hear that from me. Or you. Or…wait.

Okay, so down to business. You got some things in the works in the next few months like a new website, a new book and art shows. Give us the skinny on where, when, and how we can get more Jer.
Yeah my site is finally updated after two years of neglect, mostly in hopes of promoting my new book. It’s called “INTUIT10N” and showcases a decade of my work inspired by a life of climbing. There are essays by John Long, Duane Raleigh, Matt Samet, Steph Davis, and other climbing luminaries, so I am really psyched to share this with our little world. For now I am self publishing, which is limiting in some ways but in other ways it’s very efficient. When you purchase a book, it is printed that day and shipped. I like the environmental statement of not having a pile of stock somewhere being unsold. However, being responsible usually makes things more expensive, and that’s no exception in this case, but it’s worth it. Other things in the works are a showing off my work in Boulder in the spring. Most folks think I live there anyways, so it’ll be nice to perpetuate the facade.

Any last things you want the readers of P&C to know?
Never stop listening to intuition. Unless you have bad intuition. Then, Don’t listen. Listen to rap instead.

To see more of Jer’s art or to buy his book, visit his website jercollins.com

Interview by Wig (Andrew Tower)
Pictures provided by Steph Davis

Where are you living and how long have you been there?
Moab.  Since 1995, I think.  I’m very bad with dates.
But definitely over ten years?
Definitely
Why Moab?
Because it is the best place in the whole world!
I can see it as a good wintering spot but isn’t it just unbearable in the summers?
Yes, but then you can go to Rifle. And it’s still the best place in the whole world, that’s how good it is.
Do you have any winter projects in “the best place on earth?” or are you planning on traveling this winter?
I am psyched to be in Moab all winter.  It is the winter paradise.  I want to climb down at Indian Creek, but I’m also doing a very short trip to Italy.  Four days!
What’s in Italy and what can you do in four days?
I’m going to the Lecco Film Festival, because they translated my book into Italian. I would stay longer, but it’s kind of cold in late January, and I really do love Moab in the winter.
While you’re in Moab all winter are you going to see Sparkle Motion at all?
I hope so.  I miss every show and it’s just awful. Lisa has nearly given up on me.  See the problem is scheduling.  They usually start playing around 9:30.  I am usually asleep around 8:30.
Are you an old lady sleeper?
I am like a puppy.  I use a lot of energy so I have to sleep a LOT. I wake up at 5:00 a.m.  usually.
That’s ridiculous. Way too early.
Well, it’s light out. I mean, usually.
If you didn’t live in the “best place on earth” what would be  your second pick?
Arco, Italy.
So I suppose I don’t have to ask you where your favorite overseas climbing area is then.
Yes, but I also like Patagonia. Arco is awesome because it’s kind of like Moab, except Italian, and limestone instead of sandstone, and a massive terminal base cliff instead of short ones. But Moab is still better, of course.
What’s on your Christmas list this year?
Nothing.  I want nothing.  Seriously!
Nothing!?
I’m easy to shop for.
Did you have any New Year’s resolutions this year that actually happened?
Well. I don’t make New Year’s resolutions because that makes no sense to me. I was born on November 4, so New Year’s Day is not a year. I do that on my birthday.
So you must have just made some.
But it’s kind of different from resolutions, actually. I always try to do something on my birthday that is something I hope I will be doing a lot in the year to come.  So this year on my birthday I was doing wingsuit BASE. jumps in Lauterbrunnen.
Wow.
And then I pay attention to the things that happen on that day, because I feel like that has some implication too.
Speaking of, why did BASE jumping stick so hard with you?
A lot of things.  There is a lot to learn and it exemplifies freedom in many ways. I also feel very comfortable with people who are living on the fringe.  As normal as BASE seems to me, I’m realizing that it is still very little understood or accepted by many people.
A while ago, after a certain event, Patagonia dropped their ambassador program and then magically they brought it back and left a few people off the list including you. Since then I have sensed maybe some bad blood it seems between you and P-Funk. What’s the deal with that? You were one of their golden children and then nothing. From the outside it seemed like a case of climbing (again) being taken too seriously but then that’s just what I saw.
That was a sad situation, so I don’t talk about it.  But I think your observations are very insightful.
What is your favorite rest day activity?
Reading, gardening, running, BASE jumping, shampooing my dog, cleaning the house, cooking.
What’s he best book you’ve ever read?
Oh, that’s hard! I can read two books a day sometimes.  I have some favorite authors. I love TC Boyle.  I love Haruki Murakami. I love Isabel Allende and Gabriel Garcia Marques.
I love Love in the Time of Cholera.
Me too. You know what book is awesome?  Refiner’s Fire by Mark Helprin.  I love that book.
Here’s a loaded question. Why do you climb?
Right now I climb because when I don’t climb, I miss it too much.
Yeah but WHY do you miss it?
Mostly because it simply makes me feel good.  It can be a lot more involved than that, of course, but it really is that simple. But recently I have sometimes gotten sucked into BASE jumping binges, and it’s easy to let four or five days go by with no climbing. Then I feel really edgy and bummed out, and I realize that climbing is a big part of what makes me content.
You used to do a lot of alpine climbing it seemed like. I haven’t noticed as much in that arena lately. Hiatus? Done with it?
No, you’re right.  I spent a bunch of time up at the Diamond last summer, which obviously isn’t alpine climbing but is more like being in the mountains. I’ve been missing it.  I always go in cycles or phases with different types of climbing, just kind of following it.  I am missing the peaks in Patagonia again.
What cycle are you in now?
It’s the best season in Moab.  In the winter I get really excited about crack climbing here. It’s also the best season for jumping here, because the winds are more stable and calm, but I will be heading to Argentina within the year, I’m sure.
We just witnessed a horrific BASE accident a few weeks ago in Clear Creek. Have you had any accidents?
I didn’t know there was any jumping at Clear Creek.  That sounds bad. I did have an accident last August. I fractured my sacrum, and I am totally recovered, but my insurance company is denying the claim so now I am really having a hard time with it.
Bummer.
Yeah. I’m pretty sad about the whole thing. I’ve had insurance since I was living in my car, and this is the first time I’ve actually needed it.  I should have stayed in law school…
If you could only climb one route for the rest of your life what would it be?
Hmm. Tricky. I do love to repeat routes I like a lot. One route, geeze. I don’t know! It would have to be something with lots and lots of pitches, since it could only be one route. Probably Salathe.
Is there a lot of variety on that route?
Yes, so if it was the only one you got, you could be pretty content, I think. Would that mean that nobody else could climb it?  Would rangers not be allowed there? Could you jump it too?
Sure?
Okay.  Definitely Salathe. That’s actually a pretty good deal! Could I do a time share, with someone who picked Rifle?
Perhaps…You haven’t been in Yosemite in a while either just not in that zone right now?
I actually went on a clandestine um, hiking trip there last May. I didn’t climb. I just… hiked.
And how was that?
It was awesome!
By yourself
Well, sometimes I hiked with friends, and sometimes I hiked by myself.  Yeah, it was sick
Sounds wonderful. Last question. What’s something every climber should know?
The exclusions on your insurance policy.

Photo: by lucas marshall--lucasmarshall.com

Sonnie Trotter. You know him. He’s that crazy guy from Canadia with a clever little tattoo on his arm. He was in some video climbing some crack. He’s sent some hard stuff, some scary stuff and some rad stuff. He’s been there and done that, and he’s actually still doing it. He finally peeled himself away from climbing rocks and doing yoga with his hot girlfriend to give P&C a few good answers to our questions. Enjoy.

Tell me what the best part about living in Squamish is.
Are you joking? Have you ever been to Squamish? Don’t tell me I really need to answer this question. Please Andrew, don’t fucking tell me you’re serious. Next…
If you had to choose between sport climbing and bouldering forever which would it be? And what about trad climbing vs. that winner?
I think I would choose bouldering over everything else, but, shit man, that is a hard question. The reason I say bouldering is because I am in love with (more than anything) the feeling of moving over stone, the freedom of climbing movement. I don’t particularly enjoy harnesses or ropes and other such crap, but the lines that I get to do using those tools are quite remarkable. It’s highly liberating when you do a 150-foot rock climb and you can’t see your belayer anymore and you have birds floating underneath you…liberating. But since you said choose “one” and then you said “forever” I think bouldering would win. Bouldering, highballing and free soloing.
What’s the best route under 5.9 or under you’ve ever climbed?
Wonderland 5.9, it’s the last pitch of the Smoke Bluff connection and I solo it every chance I get, probably every month of the year. It’s the best. From right to left, hand over hand on glassy feet but sinker jugs and locks and a good bit of exposure too. Coastal granite is the shit.
Why does JT call you Mr. Namaste? Does that shit really help at all?
JT has a lot of names for me. I can’t seem to keep up. He’s a pretty funny guy and it’s just his way of making himself feel better. I’ve been doing more yoga this year than ever and he seems to think yoga is for fags. I think he should just call me fag then instead of Mr.Namaste you know, cut to the chase like a real man. For example, I like to call him ‘Ol Baldy.
What’s one famous crag you’d be happy never climbing at ever again?
American Fork, Utah. A.K.A. Broken Glass. What an over-rated pile of scrap metal and glue.
What was the coolest thing about 24HHH this year?
Getting drunk with the Okie crew. Even though I had to save my juju for the comp, it was still a blast of a weekend, and drinking always makes me smile. I also enjoyed the climbing and hanging out with good people, lets not forget that part.
If you had the opportunity to trade a punch in the face with any professional athlete, climbing or otherwise, who would it be and why.
Do they have to be alive? I’d probably go with Wayne Gretzky, number 99 of the Edmonton Oilers / L.A. Kings / N.Y Rangers. I think if you’re going to trade punches for fun, I’d want it to be a celebrity member of my own country, not sure why. Also the fact that he’s a hockey playing legend even more so, cause if you’re going to lose some teeth over it, you don’t want to say that a rollerblader or a figure skater or a sport climber knocked them out, you’d rather tell people it was a Hockey Hall of Famer. And you know, they always said he was bit soft, so I’d want to know for sure.
Write three facts about yourself and one false one so we can guess which one you made up.
I got malaria while in India.
I was born, but not raised in South Africa.
I was arrested in Boulder, CO.
I dropped a best friend off the end of our rope.
Who have you been listening to lately?
Always the same man, Bob Marley, Led Zeppelin, Groundation, Johnny Cash and 2pac. Why what are you listening to man? Give me some of that shit.
What’s the best new training tool to use so we can get strong like you?
Try typing out annoying interview after annoying interview all day and see how strong your fingers get? If that doesn’t work, buy one of my hand built, custom hangboards and train like a motherfucker. But here’s the hook, seriously, use weight. For real, people, if you just hang with your own body weight you will plateau (unless you’re 350 pounds). The way to get strong is to resist force, do dead hangs with 30 pounds off your harness, I double dare you. Or get your gal to dangle from your dingles. Wink.

Interview by Andrew Tower (Wig)

Photos by Caroline Treadway (C-Note)

Let’s start with basics. Where are you from? How old are you? How long have you lived in boulder?
I am 22 years old, I was born in Boulder and I still live here (but we moved to Kansas City when I was 2 for a year).
When did you start climbing?
I was 10 and I started at the Boulder Rock Club. I took kids classes during the summer and then I joined the Jr. Team and I started doing comps.
And you’ve been shredding the Front Range gnar ever since. What’s the best crag within an hour of boulder?
Hmm. I guess for sport climbing its maybe Clear Creek. I don’t really know if I can decide. There are a bunch of smaller areas that are good. The Flatirons, the Monastery, Industrial Wall, Eldo, Boulder Canyon.
So. Just anything I guess.
Yes. There are a lot. It just depends on my mood I guess
What’s the best route you’ve ever climbed that’s 5.8 or easier?
5.8 or easier?  I cant think of anything really that easy. I soloed the 1st Flatiron. How hard is that?
5.6
It was fucking terrifying. I thought I was going to die. No good. I will never do it again, but i guess it was kinda cool…
So what are you doing with your days right now? You graduated right?
Yes, I graduated in May 2007. Now I just climb and travel and try to keep my brain busy, but its getting old. I think I need to go back to school. I like climbing but I’m not one of those people who can stay motivated when it’s the only thing I do. Daniel woods and I did a slide show in Kentucky at a high school, so now I want to do more because I’m sick of just traveling and climbing. I feel like I don’t do anything all that productive.
That sounds rad. I say do it. You have P&C’s stamp of approval.
Ha thanks. I like the idea too, and my sponsors do too. Hopefully I can organize it and make it happen.
Good. We have a reader submitted question. Someone I know wants to know if you are of Nordic descent or if he has just convinced himself you look that way.
Nordic descent? I have no idea. Maybe…
yeah…
My parents are from Holland, MI, so we have some Dutch and Irish and English I think. I’m a random mix. I’m also the only one in the family with blond hair. You have viewer submitted questions?
Actually no but Limit made a drunken comment one night and I decided to publicly poke fun at him for it. Well speaking of drinking, I hear you do not know how to go into a liquor store and buy alcohol.
I’ve been to the liquor store three times since I turned 21. I just didn’t know what kind of vodka to buy because I never drink and there were so many different kinds. I was overwhelmed.
So if you aren’t a drinker what do you do? Any vices at all?
Yes. Lots. Cookies, ice cream and sleeping pills. Not good. I have sleeping problems and I take sleeping pills and I’m trying to not, but I always cave. And the internet.
What’s your favorite website? This is an EASY question.
I don’t know if I have a favorite. Let me think.
Ahem.
I go on 8a a lot. and Facebook and the Foodnetwork and weather.com
AHEM.
Pimpin and Crimpin…duh…
Of course. So 8a, you have a card and everything?
Yeah I do. I suck right now though. I used to be good, but I haven’t been sending shit. I need to have a comeback. I need to start climbing outside again. I’m going to Spain in February with Beth so hopefully sending will occur.
I’m certain it will. What’s in between Spain and now? Why aren’t you climbing outside this very moment?
I’m trying to train for North American Championships in Montreal in 3 weeks. And in December, well, I haven’t thought that far ahead, but January is the National Championships so I will train for that too. I climbed in Eldo on Saturday though, so I’ve been getting out a little bit. I want to go the VRG in December, but I’m afraid it will be too cold for me. I suck at climbing in the cold.
A warm weather girl huh? What’s the best thing to do when it’s warm outside that ISN’T climbing?
I like running too. I ran Cross Country in 10th grade. It was hard.
The very first article I ever read in a climbing magazine was about you and Tori Allen and I think you said something about wanting to free a route on El Cap eventually. How’s that goal coming?
Haha Yes I’ve always said that. I haven’t got around to it. Hopefully someday… It’s a lot of work and preparation. I’d like to go with Beth some day. I think I will do it someday. I just need to be ready and motivated.
—-
(a bunch of boring banter about Yosemite)
—-
…but whatever we had fun I guess. Gotta screw up sometimes.
That’s how you learn. I’ve learned through my own epics
What’s the MOST epic thing that’s happened?
So many. Mostly traveling epics. I almost didn’t make it home from China. They told me I had no reservation, and I started freaking out because I almost didn’t make it there. The same thing happened. I think I actually had a panic attack and collapsed on the floor in the airport. I was exhausted and so ready to go home, and they wouldn’t give me my boarding pass and they kept speaking Chinese and I just shut down mentally and freaked out. Then these two stewardesses came and took my arms and lead me to the front of the line and gave me my ticket and brought me through security and put me on the plane. I think they just wanted to get rid of me. Another time, in Australia, our van broke down and we were stuck for two days in this little town. We ended up hitchhiking. There was a lot of crazy things in Australia.
Lets talk about boys.
Ok.
You got one right?
Yup.
Kick ass climber right?
Yeah, he’s pretty talented. He’ll go months without climbing and then be strong immediately. He lived in Philly for the last year and a half. He was working not climbing much. Now he’s on a road trip.
Do you get hit on at the crags a lot or do you think dudes are totally intimidated?
Not really. I think I’m too shy. I just don’t talk much, so even if they were I don’t respond to it. Then maybe they get intimidated or think I’m a total bitch.
Are you?
No, I don’t think so…maybe I am!
Doubtful. Maybe it’s because 9/10 times I’ve seen you climbing it’s been with your dad. No one wants to hit on a girl in front of her dad.
That’s true. Good point.
Could you actually date a non-climber?
I don’t know. I’ve never thought about it. I bet I could though. Rob and I never really climbed together. We do other stuff because he likes to boulder and I sport climb.
Typical fluffy question: what’s the very best thing about climbing?
For me, climbing is the best sport because it never gets old. There is always going to be something new. New areas, different rock, different styles. The possibilities are endless. There’s no end to the challenges. It’s not like other sports where the distance/rules/course/movement is always the same. It’s a very unique sport in that way.
Cheers to that. If time, money and experience were not a factor at all. What would be the coolest job in all of history to have?
I’ve always wanted to be in CIA, but you have to move to DC
Really. Doing what?
Covert operations. I want to know what the government is doing behind our backs, and I want to be in the know.
Oh that kind of thing.
Yes, I studied international affairs.
Where do you see yourself in five years?
I think I will probably be in Law School. That’s what I want to do right now anyway. International Law
Damn. You’re an ambitious one.
Yes I suppose. I get bored. I want to learn more. I like school. I’m a total nerd wad.

That sounds like the best deal ever.
After that it really depends but that is the most routine that my day is, any day that I have.
It seems you have plenty of time to climb though, which I suppose is an important thing, if not THE important thing.
What I do is interact with humanity through myriad forms of communication both real/in-person and virtual. It’s climber/kayaker/mountain biker, meets life-coach, plays mad rock and roll drums, and changes lives through climbing.
Where have you been in the last 6 months?
Cusco, Peru – April 11th until April 25th
Hike the Inca trail with my brother Tommy and my Dad.

Koraro, Ethiopia – April 28th until May 18th
Work with ophthalmologist Geoff Tabin as part of the Millennium Village Project.

Silverton, Colorado – May 20th until June 4th
Play music with my band The Dust Storm incl. a show in Durango, Colorado.

Vail, Colorado – June 4th until June 8th
Emcee at the Teva Mountain Games, and play drums with the Dust Storm.

Scotland June -15th – June 28th
Sail in the North Sea on the Ezra, a 44ft cutter
Climb the Old Man of Hoy

New Zealand – July 1st until July 25th
Perform at the New Zealand Mountain Film Festival

Telluride, Colorado – August 1st – August 3rd
Attend the Chuck Kroger memorial festival and play live rock and roll.

Salt Lake City, Utah – August 8th – August 11th
Outdoor Retailer Summer Market

Holy shit.
In February I was in southern Chile in the Patagonia region climbing with Yvonne Chounaird and others and making a film. I am off to the Valley to climb for the next 5-weeks.
That’s amazing.
I am planning on climbing with my brother Sean, a T-12 paraplegic, up the NOSE on El Capitan in a hopefully sub-24-hour ascent for the first one-day ascent of El cap by a paraplegic then I climb El Cap with another brother Tommy – the Shield in 3-days and 2-nights
That’s crazy
I also am bringing up ophthalmologist Geoff Tabin, who I helped cure blindness in Ethiopia this summer.
So you have a busy schedule.
We are doing the West Face (24-pitches w some 5.11 amd a lot of 5.10. It will be the biggest climb he has ever done. I am going back to Africa with him. After the Valley I will be there until October 20th. I head south on Oct. 23rd for a week in Mexico City, Mexico where I speak at a mountain film festival and climb. Then Nov. 3rd up to Banff Mountain Film Festival for a week in Alberta to do a series of 20-podcast/videocast interviews and a slew of emcee work for the BEST mountain film festival on the planet.
I can’t imagine having that busy of a schedule.
How do you feel about the direction of climbing? Do you feel it’s headed in a good direction? Are we raising young climbers to be a new generation of environmentally conscious rock jocks? Do you think the climbing community as a whole is doing loads of good?
Climbing is one of the many activities that I participate in, and that goes for the vast majority of those that call themselves climbers, either inside or outside. The direction of climbing has always been up, literally, as we ascend the boulder or wall and metaphorically as our numbers in the community rise and our awareness of the limited resources and our need to be proactive stewards regarding access and care. Climbing is one of my interests and it is a personal and obscure venture that serves my needs to commune with mama nature and challenge myself physically and mentally in a non-conventional manner. “Never doubt that a small, group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has.” -Margaret Mead. There are a few people in the climbing community trying to make change. The rest are simply enjoying the activity and that is a very worthwhile and valuable thing.
Did you and Caroline come up with any compelling meaning in your discussion of the value of honesty in lust and love?
No.
But we really enjoyed the attempts. That is the important thing to remember; the trying is where it is. The unknown, will you make it OR not. In other words – being real with yourself and your motivations is paramount to being the same with others as well as the external representations of you i.e. your climbing project, art concept, music arrangements, job, relationships with family and friends. To bring or providing the same to others.
You have a reputation for being crazy Timmy, from panties on the summit to Paris Hilton sex tapes to every single thing I’ve seen you emcee but talking with you now I don’t get that at all. Where’s that come out? Is it just morning time?
It is me morning day and night – I am serious about being funny and over-the-top and also very serious about connecting with humanity in a substantial way that feeds my desire to help people. I love making people laugh with as much gusto as I enjoy making them feel better about a difficult period in their life be it the loss of a loved one, the loss of the leg, or the loss of their self respect. I am a serious student of life, love, laughter and living in the moment. “Live life as if you will die tomorrow and learn as if you will live forever.” -Mahatma Ghandi. I am a very public person and lend my wit and charisma to many projects i.e. films, emcee, IM interviews but some of my favorite is bringing an ailing person (whatever the ailment is) further back to health.
Is that the part of people that’s giving you this passion for humanity. Giving them something back? Bringing them up ultimately, bottom line: helping.
I am one of 7 kids and we are close and in my neighborhood we were 21 kids in a row in three houses. I am swarmed with people, need them around me, gravitate to them like the earth to sun, I interact instantly and deeply with others in order to nourish my need for truth and understanding and empathy and compassion. The other side of the sword is that nothing is sacred, sacrosanct is nonsense for me, for others sorry if I step on your blessed toes or trample on your sense of decorum, decency. I am a churl in humor and a paragon in humanity – that is the irony is that I find the humor in the hurt and expose it. I was just back in Philly visiting my family and it felt as if I was bring drawn and quartered with love, pulled by myriad arms and needs and directions.
You seem like a man with more love to give than anything. Do you find yourself able to commit yourself personally to others regularly? With your schedule and your compassion. Is it hard for SO’s to understand why you do what you do?
Had a serious SO for a number of years and now I am single, so I have the opportunity to experience different women, not necessarily as a player or anything, other than just being open. I travel and sometimes I meet someone I connect with, I am not looking for an SO but she is out there, perhaps reading these words, lurking at the coffee shop, attending the next performance of my band, who knows – life is short and I love love.
What’s the most important thing in life? In one sentence
The most important thing in life is yourself, your own health and state of mind; you are your own temple, and charity starts at home baby – give to yourself first so you can give to others. See ya.

(All photos by Caroline Treadway)

Anyway I got to sit down and chat with Pete about the new film, his love of scary shit and whatever other nonsense I could think to ask him. Interview, tons of pictures and Sharp End movie trailer after the jump.

Peter Mortimer
All photos by Caroline Treadway (C-Note)

Tell me a little about Sharp End your newest little project.
We started with the concept of tying into the sharp end – going for it, putting yourself in the situation where you are laying it on the line for the fleeting moment of glory. But really what we’re interested in is people doing dangerous shit for basically no reward except your own ego and if you do it in front of a girl maybe getting laid. So the film is an investigation of the people who do the craziest, stupidest most badass shit in the climbing world. We have some insane footage. It covers everything from hard trad to headpoints to highball boulders to alpine style first ascents to free soloing to freebase, etc. It’s definitely our most rambunctious film yet.
That sounds fucking excellent!
I think its gonna be badass, we’ve captures some crazy stupid shit.
I can’t imagine. Do you get nervous filming stuff like that? I mean I remember watching Return to Sender and seeing Renan solo Lighting Bolt Cracks does that not just make you squirm.
Shooting soloing is fully hairball, and aside from the fact that I am completely drawn to it I wouldn’t do it. I’m not drawn to it as a climber, I mean, I am but I solo like 5.7 on a good day. For Sharp End we shot Steph Davis soloing on the Diamond and soloing and base-jumping off of Castleton. She is climbing solid 5.10 and 11 cracks, just totally locked in.
Right, I remember hearing about this a while ago Bronco went up with Steph to the Diamond and then he found out like 2 weeks later she had soloed it with you and he was like well fuck me sideways, I was used for reconnaissance.
Used and abused.
I also remember hearing a little Eldo filming happening.
Yeah we’ve been shooting a bunch of the new stuff in Eldo. That’s where I learned to climb and it’s still my favorite placed to punt around so I try to shoot there as much as possible. There’s been some good energy on a few of the hard headpoints and trad lines this year.
I’ve heard rumors. How did you come upon the sharp end theme, do you conceptualize before hand get some ideas together or just start filming whatever is going on and go with it? I mean is headpointing hot right now or is doing scary shit going to be hot when you finish this film?
This one is conceptualized. We brainstormed lots of ideas, etc, but then we were like what are we really interested in? What is the coolest shit to watch? Well, it’s the dangerous stuff, the stuff that really means something when you do it. Stuff that’s not just an athletic accomplishment, but that rocks your entire soul and forced you to look at why you do this shit. I mean that’s really what climbing is about right?
Absolutely. So did everyone make it out alive and (mostly) unscathed from this last one? Are there any good horror stories?
Alive? Yes. Unscathed. No. Lots of falls, bruises, crushed egos. We did a trip to the Czech Republic with some of the most badass trad climbers in the world, and there you have to place knots and you can’t use chalk and it was wonderful to watch these titans cry like little babies. They also did some rad sending, but they did their fair share of crying, whining and excuse making.
Segal a part of that crew? I feel like he just mentioned that.
Peter Mortimer: Yeah, Segal was there. He was awesome to have on the trip because he –well, I think he admits it – got his ass kicked there a bit (he also sent some rad climbs), but he really looked at himself and said damn I have a lot to learn and I want to master runout off widths and on sighting with no chalk and no idea where I’m going. He had a great attitude that was really inspiring. Keep in mind Segal did the first ascent of what I believe is one of the hardest natural lines in the world [Iron Monkey], which is still unrepeated. Matt Wilder was just working on it and he didn’t send and he’s been sending everything. Sonnie came through and ran up everything but didn’t send it. It’s the real deal. I did watch Daniel Woods top rope on it and he could do the move pretty quickly but he wasn’t into the gear side of it
What’s the most inspiring climbing you’ve filmed or been apart of filming?
Peter Mortimer: Hmm that’s a tough one let me think for a second. It’s always the last thing I’ve been doing. Watching Chris DWS in Mallorca was amazing. He was so in his element there. Is that the most inspiring? I don’t know…
Speaking of Chris, what was harder, hanging off the side of a cliff for countless hours while he lobbed off the hardest DWS in the world or y our hardest gear redpoint?
My hardest gear redpoint for sure. Shooting is easy. It’s fun. It’s all about just being in position and capturing these amazing feats. Redpointing hard gear routes is fucking tough.
Agreed. Who’s been the most pleasant climber to work with?
Honestly everyone is cool to work with. I’ve become really good friends with a lot of the climbers through filming them. I feel really lucky that way. People stay at our place when they come through. They drop by the office to look at footage. I feel like I am part of a cool community and I feel really lucky like that. My girlfriend and parents are always like, god you have so many cool friends and I say yeah it’s because I film climbers. I love the Yosemite Monkeys and I love the Colorado trad guys. Renan Ozturk is probably the coolest most inspiring person you could meet.
How much of the time are you on the road?
Comes and goes. We did two months in Europe this spring then back here editing since June. I’m flying to the Eiger on Wednesday for the final shot of Sharp End, but otherwise around a bit these days.
So when does Sharp End premier? Reel Rock Tour?
September 10th is the world premier in Boulder, but there are actually a couple showings before that in Vancouver and Squamish. Then we are doing like 100 shows around the world this year.
That is killer.
Yeah, we are psyched.
Is there anything else you’d like P&C’s readers to know?
Yes. But it’ll have to wait for the next round. I still have lots of spraying to do.

TRAILER: I had trouble loading the video click here for the trailer on Pete’s site

C-note: Let’s start with the hot topic of sensory deprivation.
JK: Station.

C-note: How have you used your homemade SD chamber to achieve greatness?

JK: My parents thought I was wasting lots of time everywhere.

C-note: So, how do you make a living?
JK: I’m a professional rock climber/amateur filmmaker/hold shaper/graphic design artist/sculptor/entrepreneur. And on top of all that, an eager, young, professional at heart.

C-note: If you had a real job, what would it be?
JK: I’ve always considered becoming a secret agent or superhero—I mean that’s way more real than rock climbing.

C-note: I hear your Mom’s a professional hair stylist. What does she think about your current ‘do?
JK: “Cut the mullet…” Growing up I was always coming up with crazy hairstyles and trying to talk my Mom into cutting them for me. She usually refused. This eventually led me to move out of the house and go after my own hairstyles.

C-note: When did you start climbing?
JK: When I was like 16. But I was always climbing houses or trees. You could often find me on the rooftops.

C-note: Favorite climbing area, stateside?
JK: Can I just hypothetically say Fontainebleau?

C-note: Uh, sure. How about Europe then?
JK: Hypothetically speaking, Hueco Tanks, Joe’s Valley. Basically any good sandstone.

C-note: Everyone wants to ask you about highballs, so I’m not going to.
JK: Fine then.
C-note: No, really.
JK: Actually, my father is extremely afraid of heights.

C-note: Why?
JK: I think it’s something he acquired with age. Genetically, I’m headed down that road, too.

C-note: That sucks. Are you scared now?
JK: I’m actually super scared right now.

C-note: Why?
JK: Stop looking at me like that!

C-note: Oh, we’re not supposed to look at each other during the interview?
JK: No.

C-note: So what’s your proudest lowball?
JK: Um, you know, there are so many good lesser lines out there…I can’t even remember. It’s like each one is better than the next.

C-note: You’ve climbed in top-secret bouldering areas all over the world. What’s your obsession with first ascents? Why is that better than working a hard line with a little history?

JK: I think because you’re always going for the unknown, to see if it’s possible or not. A lot of times your only inspiration to climb is because a line is beautiful and looks crazy. It looks impossible. But it can go the other way, too. To climb something that’s really historical has a lot of power behind it, a lot of meaning.

C-note: Any classics that stick out in your mind?
JK: Definitely Midnight Lightning. The first time I walked up to it when I was a beginner, it looked unreal. You hear so much about something and then you see it. It’s crazy that you can go anywhere and see stuff like that. I mean, if you wanna play basketball, you can’t just go out and play with Jordan. It’s not like that for climbers. Anyone can climb with anyone.

C-note: Favorite first ascents?
JK: Yeah I have a bunch of them. Evilution is number one, and the Kumite in Japan.
C-note: That’s cool.

C-note: Who would win in a fight—Jason Kehl (pronounced like the vegetable) or Jason Kehl (like the bottom of a boat)?
JK: Jason Keel, ‘cuz it sounds more like “kill”.

JK: And also I found my bizarro Jason Kehl counterpart. He lives in California. He’s a realtor.
C-note: How’d you meet him?
JK: Myspace. He found me. One day I hope to meet and fight.

C-note: You’re pretty good on the stilts. How’d you get into that?
JK: Um…it all started from the Discovery channel. I watched some sort of Asian parade where everyone was on stilts, so I went down to the woodshop and built a pair and started doing it. Now i’m going to do it ’til it’s done.

C-note: Are they the same ones you use today?
JK: I didn’t use any today.

C-note: I hear you’ve been dropping mind-altering propaganda into the So Ill ads. How do you think the public will react when they find out?
JK: Uh, no comment.

C-note: Is that a bad question?
JK: No, it’s a great question.

C-note: Have you ever tried headcasting? I hear it’s fun.
JK: No, but that’s a great idea.

C-note: What’s the best part about traveling in Japan?
JK: The food and the culture. It’s very different from any other place I’ve been—the different-nicity of it.

C-note: Preferred way to die?
JK: The most painful thing I can think of. Getting all my skin ripped off piece by piece, getting pissed on by Aboriginal people, then licked raw by 25 cats. You only get to go out once, might as well make it good. I can sleep all the time.

C-note: What’s your view on global warming?
JK: I mean sure it pisses me off like the next guy. I do what I can.

C-note: Ever tried surfing? It’s the shit.
JK: No, but when I was younger, I used to boogie board ’til my nipples were raw.

C-note: That sounds painful.
JK: It actually stunted the growth of my nipples.

C-note: I’ve noticed that about you…What do you think you were in your past life?
JK: A gnarly old hermit who lived in the cliffside and pretty much did his own thing all the time.

C-note: I’m talking about past lives.
JK: DON’T QUESTION MY PAST LIVES.

C-note: Fine, but there are some similarities…Do you see yourself as the Ozzie Osbourne of climbing?
JK: I WISH I was the Ozzy Ozbourne of climbing. I think I need to put in more hard times.

C-note: Who’s the biggest asshole in the climbing community? I want names.
JK: That red-headed bastard Shane Williams, thinks he’s 100% man.

C-note: Are you pissed at him?
JK: I mean I wasn’t before that question.

C-note: Next big trip?
JK: California. “I’m goin back to Cali…”

C-note: Favorite thing to cook?
JK: I really enjoy the Bastilla—a Moroccan dish made with pigeon meat—a multi-layered pigeon pie. I substitute chicken.

C-note: Sounds yummy.
JK: It’s really involved, takes several hours.

C-note: What’s the significance of your name and how does it relate to our calendar?
JK: Let me begin. Note the significance of the months July through November, starting with their first letter.

C-note (eventually gets it): That’s awesome!
JK: It’s pretty much the only name that does that.

C-note: Impressive. You were born in the O.
JK: I’m still trying to work it all out. But yes, Oct. 18th has great significance.

C-note: Got any mantras?
JK: Suffer for it!

JK: Could you please take out that part about the Aboriginal people in the death question? I don’t want to piss them off.
C-note: No problem.