Jeremy Collins

Chances are, if you’ve picked up a climbing mag in the past ten years or so you have no doubt seen Jeremy Collin’s art work. Not only does he monopolize the creative genius you see gracing your magazine pages, but he stinking rips too! Haling from Kansas City, this dynamo is a first ascent slayer, grabbing FA’s from Arkansas sandstone to Black Canyon granite. Always psyched for what’s next, Jer can do no wrong in our book. I pulled him away from what I like to call “arting” to do an interview with P&C. Enjoy…

Interview: Adam Peters (Bronco)

Prints:  Jer Collins

Photos:  Andrew Chasteen and Lucas Marshall

Guten Morgen.

Morgensalitudes

Interview time! We’ll start with basics: Name, DOB, Residence, occupation.
Jeremy “Jer” Collins. 11-04-76. Kansas City, Misery. Artist.

Ever paint/draw/sculpute a nude? Need a model?
I escaped art school before they made me. And yeah, I could use a model for a children’s book I am working on. You can be the large purple octopus with white gloves. I got out of school before they gave me access to naked people outside the dorms.

So, basically you’re the “it” man for all things beautiful and arty in the climbing industry. Is this the industry you’ve always seen yourself working in?
Not exactly. I was shooting for body-scarring-tribal-dance-opera-performance artist, but there was an opening in climbing-bum-artist-hippy. The climbing shoe fit.

Skills! Nice pun.
It puns in the family

Wow! Speaking of family, you’ve been working on one. How old is the little one now?
Zion Michael Ray is almost 2 1/2 yrs old. He’s not a very good belayer yet, but he loves dive-bombing the crashpads. My wife Tricia and I first climbed together in Zion National Park, and kept coming across the name. When it came time to name the offspring, we knew what it was gonna be. Poor kid. everyone thinks he’s rasta, or a Zionist.

I thought you just liked the Matrix trilogy.
Why is it that everyone your age has never heard of Zion before the Matrix? It’s a tragedy. It’s the Promised Land!

Oh, I’ve heard of it, but the Matrix just made it cool. So, your wifey does a bit of rock climbing too?
Yeah, but we have some differing styles. I like being miserable, bloody and cold, on a grade VI in the back-country whereas she likes staying in nice beds with safe, bolted crags, and a mocha-latte before putting on her harness. She’s crazy like that. She went through some serious suffering to prove her love to me. Once we got hitched she ditched the big wall experience. I don’t blame her. I honestly don’t know how she puts up with my climbing.

Damn. Sounds like she’s seen the light, when will you shape up?
Funny. I hear that question a lot, I was gonna ask you the same thing

Speaking of suffering, word is you’re heading south to Patagonia soon. Psyched?
Yeah, finally! As for climbing, we will see. Arriving as a climber, I am dependent on the weather to cooperate, but as an artist, I will be satisfied with whatever happens. Patagonia is an area that has called to me for some time. It’s finally time to answer. As for suffering, we will see.

As an artist that climbs or a climber that arts, what’s the similarities between the two? For the sake of sounding like Ron Kauk, climbers seem to express a bit of art by moving, whether that means alpine, sport, bouldering or whatever.
You suffer to advance in both, and neither pay well. So to be obsessed with both says something about what you need out of life. If the bottom line is the bottom line, then you will bottom out. I like what Ron Kauk said– “The way that I see it, there are two worlds: the world where nothing is sacred but money, and the other world, where everything is sacred.”

I agree. So, you mean you’re not rolling up to the crag in a Lexus and wearing some sort of bling from all your art sales and climbing feats?
Ha! My European sports car is a VW van.

Hippie.
More like Yippie (yuppie-hippy). It’s a gold edition 2005 Eurovan. It’s my dream ride with all the modern conveniences, like heat for the Mrs. and the toddler.

Jer on the FA of Dark Divine 12c, Sam

On the subject of climbing feats, you’ve done a ton of route development. Tell me a little about the appeal of first ascents and some of your favorite/most proud lines.
It’s the natural progression as an artist to feel the drive to express. Whether it’s canvas, paper, rock, or building my mashed potatoes into a bust of Abraham Lincoln. Some of my proudest ascents are ground-up, onsight, or second go with minimal to no bolts with just one friend along for the ride. Maybe there are harder lines I’ve sent, but the ones I am most proud of didn’t take a lot of effort to send, but to envision. You stand on the ground and think–I bet I could send that, but just barely. Being on the ground and having that 50-75% probability of sending is a good place for me to be. When the outcome is 100% probable, the adventure disappears, and I get bored quick. Some of my favorites are Supernatural at Sam’s Throne, Arkansas, and Sistine Reality, in the Black Canyon. Neither with bolts, and both very expressive and satisfying for me.

Mashed Potato art and ground up boltless climbing = Awesome.
I like my routes like my hamburger–ground up, spicy and well done.

For a dude that is so psyched on developing routes and climbing what’s up with the decision to live in a rockless, bbq loving city?
It’s complicated. But some of the best parts about being in the Midwest is the price of homes, ease of access to both coasts, and I have a bit of a love affair with Arkansas sandstone. Plus the BBQ cannot be beat.

Jer on Ra, Wichita Mtns., Oklahoma

Let’s be honest, Arkansas sandstone is legit, kinda like Oklahoma granite is legit.
You didn’t hear that from me. Or you. Or…wait.

Okay, so down to business. You got some things in the works in the next few months like a new website, a new book and art shows. Give us the skinny on where, when, and how we can get more Jer.
Yeah my site is finally updated after two years of neglect, mostly in hopes of promoting my new book. It’s called “INTUIT10N” and showcases a decade of my work inspired by a life of climbing. There are essays by John Long, Duane Raleigh, Matt Samet, Steph Davis, and other climbing luminaries, so I am really psyched to share this with our little world. For now I am self publishing, which is limiting in some ways but in other ways it’s very efficient. When you purchase a book, it is printed that day and shipped. I like the environmental statement of not having a pile of stock somewhere being unsold. However, being responsible usually makes things more expensive, and that’s no exception in this case, but it’s worth it. Other things in the works are a showing off my work in Boulder in the spring. Most folks think I live there anyways, so it’ll be nice to perpetuate the facade.

Any last things you want the readers of P&C to know?
Never stop listening to intuition. Unless you have bad intuition. Then, Don’t listen. Listen to rap instead.

To see more of Jer’s art or to buy his book, visit his website jercollins.com

Photo: by lucas marshall--lucasmarshall.com

Sonnie Trotter. You know him. He’s that crazy guy from Canadia with a clever little tattoo on his arm. He was in some video climbing some crack. He’s sent some hard stuff, some scary stuff and some rad stuff. He’s been there and done that, and he’s actually still doing it. He finally peeled himself away from climbing rocks and doing yoga with his hot girlfriend to give P&C a few good answers to our questions. Enjoy.

Tell me what the best part about living in Squamish is.
Are you joking? Have you ever been to Squamish? Don’t tell me I really need to answer this question. Please Andrew, don’t fucking tell me you’re serious. Next…
If you had to choose between sport climbing and bouldering forever which would it be? And what about trad climbing vs. that winner?
I think I would choose bouldering over everything else, but, shit man, that is a hard question. The reason I say bouldering is because I am in love with (more than anything) the feeling of moving over stone, the freedom of climbing movement. I don’t particularly enjoy harnesses or ropes and other such crap, but the lines that I get to do using those tools are quite remarkable. It’s highly liberating when you do a 150-foot rock climb and you can’t see your belayer anymore and you have birds floating underneath you…liberating. But since you said choose “one” and then you said “forever” I think bouldering would win. Bouldering, highballing and free soloing.
What’s the best route under 5.9 or under you’ve ever climbed?
Wonderland 5.9, it’s the last pitch of the Smoke Bluff connection and I solo it every chance I get, probably every month of the year. It’s the best. From right to left, hand over hand on glassy feet but sinker jugs and locks and a good bit of exposure too. Coastal granite is the shit.
Why does JT call you Mr. Namaste? Does that shit really help at all?
JT has a lot of names for me. I can’t seem to keep up. He’s a pretty funny guy and it’s just his way of making himself feel better. I’ve been doing more yoga this year than ever and he seems to think yoga is for fags. I think he should just call me fag then instead of Mr.Namaste you know, cut to the chase like a real man. For example, I like to call him ‘Ol Baldy.
What’s one famous crag you’d be happy never climbing at ever again?
American Fork, Utah. A.K.A. Broken Glass. What an over-rated pile of scrap metal and glue.
What was the coolest thing about 24HHH this year?
Getting drunk with the Okie crew. Even though I had to save my juju for the comp, it was still a blast of a weekend, and drinking always makes me smile. I also enjoyed the climbing and hanging out with good people, lets not forget that part.
If you had the opportunity to trade a punch in the face with any professional athlete, climbing or otherwise, who would it be and why.
Do they have to be alive? I’d probably go with Wayne Gretzky, number 99 of the Edmonton Oilers / L.A. Kings / N.Y Rangers. I think if you’re going to trade punches for fun, I’d want it to be a celebrity member of my own country, not sure why. Also the fact that he’s a hockey playing legend even more so, cause if you’re going to lose some teeth over it, you don’t want to say that a rollerblader or a figure skater or a sport climber knocked them out, you’d rather tell people it was a Hockey Hall of Famer. And you know, they always said he was bit soft, so I’d want to know for sure.
Write three facts about yourself and one false one so we can guess which one you made up.
I got malaria while in India.
I was born, but not raised in South Africa.
I was arrested in Boulder, CO.
I dropped a best friend off the end of our rope.
Who have you been listening to lately?
Always the same man, Bob Marley, Led Zeppelin, Groundation, Johnny Cash and 2pac. Why what are you listening to man? Give me some of that shit.
What’s the best new training tool to use so we can get strong like you?
Try typing out annoying interview after annoying interview all day and see how strong your fingers get? If that doesn’t work, buy one of my hand built, custom hangboards and train like a motherfucker. But here’s the hook, seriously, use weight. For real, people, if you just hang with your own body weight you will plateau (unless you’re 350 pounds). The way to get strong is to resist force, do dead hangs with 30 pounds off your harness, I double dare you. Or get your gal to dangle from your dingles. Wink.

Interview by Andrew Tower (Wig)

Photos by Caroline Treadway (C-Note)

Let’s start with basics. Where are you from? How old are you? How long have you lived in boulder?
I am 22 years old, I was born in Boulder and I still live here (but we moved to Kansas City when I was 2 for a year).
When did you start climbing?
I was 10 and I started at the Boulder Rock Club. I took kids classes during the summer and then I joined the Jr. Team and I started doing comps.
And you’ve been shredding the Front Range gnar ever since. What’s the best crag within an hour of boulder?
Hmm. I guess for sport climbing its maybe Clear Creek. I don’t really know if I can decide. There are a bunch of smaller areas that are good. The Flatirons, the Monastery, Industrial Wall, Eldo, Boulder Canyon.
So. Just anything I guess.
Yes. There are a lot. It just depends on my mood I guess
What’s the best route you’ve ever climbed that’s 5.8 or easier?
5.8 or easier?  I cant think of anything really that easy. I soloed the 1st Flatiron. How hard is that?
5.6
It was fucking terrifying. I thought I was going to die. No good. I will never do it again, but i guess it was kinda cool…
So what are you doing with your days right now? You graduated right?
Yes, I graduated in May 2007. Now I just climb and travel and try to keep my brain busy, but its getting old. I think I need to go back to school. I like climbing but I’m not one of those people who can stay motivated when it’s the only thing I do. Daniel woods and I did a slide show in Kentucky at a high school, so now I want to do more because I’m sick of just traveling and climbing. I feel like I don’t do anything all that productive.
That sounds rad. I say do it. You have P&C’s stamp of approval.
Ha thanks. I like the idea too, and my sponsors do too. Hopefully I can organize it and make it happen.
Good. We have a reader submitted question. Someone I know wants to know if you are of Nordic descent or if he has just convinced himself you look that way.
Nordic descent? I have no idea. Maybe…
yeah…
My parents are from Holland, MI, so we have some Dutch and Irish and English I think. I’m a random mix. I’m also the only one in the family with blond hair. You have viewer submitted questions?
Actually no but Limit made a drunken comment one night and I decided to publicly poke fun at him for it. Well speaking of drinking, I hear you do not know how to go into a liquor store and buy alcohol.
I’ve been to the liquor store three times since I turned 21. I just didn’t know what kind of vodka to buy because I never drink and there were so many different kinds. I was overwhelmed.
So if you aren’t a drinker what do you do? Any vices at all?
Yes. Lots. Cookies, ice cream and sleeping pills. Not good. I have sleeping problems and I take sleeping pills and I’m trying to not, but I always cave. And the internet.
What’s your favorite website? This is an EASY question.
I don’t know if I have a favorite. Let me think.
Ahem.
I go on 8a a lot. and Facebook and the Foodnetwork and weather.com
AHEM.
Pimpin and Crimpin…duh…
Of course. So 8a, you have a card and everything?
Yeah I do. I suck right now though. I used to be good, but I haven’t been sending shit. I need to have a comeback. I need to start climbing outside again. I’m going to Spain in February with Beth so hopefully sending will occur.
I’m certain it will. What’s in between Spain and now? Why aren’t you climbing outside this very moment?
I’m trying to train for North American Championships in Montreal in 3 weeks. And in December, well, I haven’t thought that far ahead, but January is the National Championships so I will train for that too. I climbed in Eldo on Saturday though, so I’ve been getting out a little bit. I want to go the VRG in December, but I’m afraid it will be too cold for me. I suck at climbing in the cold.
A warm weather girl huh? What’s the best thing to do when it’s warm outside that ISN’T climbing?
I like running too. I ran Cross Country in 10th grade. It was hard.
The very first article I ever read in a climbing magazine was about you and Tori Allen and I think you said something about wanting to free a route on El Cap eventually. How’s that goal coming?
Haha Yes I’ve always said that. I haven’t got around to it. Hopefully someday… It’s a lot of work and preparation. I’d like to go with Beth some day. I think I will do it someday. I just need to be ready and motivated.
—-
(a bunch of boring banter about Yosemite)
—-
…but whatever we had fun I guess. Gotta screw up sometimes.
That’s how you learn. I’ve learned through my own epics
What’s the MOST epic thing that’s happened?
So many. Mostly traveling epics. I almost didn’t make it home from China. They told me I had no reservation, and I started freaking out because I almost didn’t make it there. The same thing happened. I think I actually had a panic attack and collapsed on the floor in the airport. I was exhausted and so ready to go home, and they wouldn’t give me my boarding pass and they kept speaking Chinese and I just shut down mentally and freaked out. Then these two stewardesses came and took my arms and lead me to the front of the line and gave me my ticket and brought me through security and put me on the plane. I think they just wanted to get rid of me. Another time, in Australia, our van broke down and we were stuck for two days in this little town. We ended up hitchhiking. There was a lot of crazy things in Australia.
Lets talk about boys.
Ok.
You got one right?
Yup.
Kick ass climber right?
Yeah, he’s pretty talented. He’ll go months without climbing and then be strong immediately. He lived in Philly for the last year and a half. He was working not climbing much. Now he’s on a road trip.
Do you get hit on at the crags a lot or do you think dudes are totally intimidated?
Not really. I think I’m too shy. I just don’t talk much, so even if they were I don’t respond to it. Then maybe they get intimidated or think I’m a total bitch.
Are you?
No, I don’t think so…maybe I am!
Doubtful. Maybe it’s because 9/10 times I’ve seen you climbing it’s been with your dad. No one wants to hit on a girl in front of her dad.
That’s true. Good point.
Could you actually date a non-climber?
I don’t know. I’ve never thought about it. I bet I could though. Rob and I never really climbed together. We do other stuff because he likes to boulder and I sport climb.
Typical fluffy question: what’s the very best thing about climbing?
For me, climbing is the best sport because it never gets old. There is always going to be something new. New areas, different rock, different styles. The possibilities are endless. There’s no end to the challenges. It’s not like other sports where the distance/rules/course/movement is always the same. It’s a very unique sport in that way.
Cheers to that. If time, money and experience were not a factor at all. What would be the coolest job in all of history to have?
I’ve always wanted to be in CIA, but you have to move to DC
Really. Doing what?
Covert operations. I want to know what the government is doing behind our backs, and I want to be in the know.
Oh that kind of thing.
Yes, I studied international affairs.
Where do you see yourself in five years?
I think I will probably be in Law School. That’s what I want to do right now anyway. International Law
Damn. You’re an ambitious one.
Yes I suppose. I get bored. I want to learn more. I like school. I’m a total nerd wad.