Interview by Wig (Andrew Tower)
Pictures provided by Steph Davis

Where are you living and how long have you been there?
Moab.  Since 1995, I think.  I’m very bad with dates.
But definitely over ten years?
Definitely
Why Moab?
Because it is the best place in the whole world!
I can see it as a good wintering spot but isn’t it just unbearable in the summers?
Yes, but then you can go to Rifle. And it’s still the best place in the whole world, that’s how good it is.
Do you have any winter projects in “the best place on earth?” or are you planning on traveling this winter?
I am psyched to be in Moab all winter.  It is the winter paradise.  I want to climb down at Indian Creek, but I’m also doing a very short trip to Italy.  Four days!
What’s in Italy and what can you do in four days?
I’m going to the Lecco Film Festival, because they translated my book into Italian. I would stay longer, but it’s kind of cold in late January, and I really do love Moab in the winter.
While you’re in Moab all winter are you going to see Sparkle Motion at all?
I hope so.  I miss every show and it’s just awful. Lisa has nearly given up on me.  See the problem is scheduling.  They usually start playing around 9:30.  I am usually asleep around 8:30.
Are you an old lady sleeper?
I am like a puppy.  I use a lot of energy so I have to sleep a LOT. I wake up at 5:00 a.m.  usually.
That’s ridiculous. Way too early.
Well, it’s light out. I mean, usually.
If you didn’t live in the “best place on earth” what would be  your second pick?
Arco, Italy.
So I suppose I don’t have to ask you where your favorite overseas climbing area is then.
Yes, but I also like Patagonia. Arco is awesome because it’s kind of like Moab, except Italian, and limestone instead of sandstone, and a massive terminal base cliff instead of short ones. But Moab is still better, of course.
What’s on your Christmas list this year?
Nothing.  I want nothing.  Seriously!
Nothing!?
I’m easy to shop for.
Did you have any New Year’s resolutions this year that actually happened?
Well. I don’t make New Year’s resolutions because that makes no sense to me. I was born on November 4, so New Year’s Day is not a year. I do that on my birthday.
So you must have just made some.
But it’s kind of different from resolutions, actually. I always try to do something on my birthday that is something I hope I will be doing a lot in the year to come.  So this year on my birthday I was doing wingsuit BASE. jumps in Lauterbrunnen.
Wow.
And then I pay attention to the things that happen on that day, because I feel like that has some implication too.
Speaking of, why did BASE jumping stick so hard with you?
A lot of things.  There is a lot to learn and it exemplifies freedom in many ways. I also feel very comfortable with people who are living on the fringe.  As normal as BASE seems to me, I’m realizing that it is still very little understood or accepted by many people.
A while ago, after a certain event, Patagonia dropped their ambassador program and then magically they brought it back and left a few people off the list including you. Since then I have sensed maybe some bad blood it seems between you and P-Funk. What’s the deal with that? You were one of their golden children and then nothing. From the outside it seemed like a case of climbing (again) being taken too seriously but then that’s just what I saw.
That was a sad situation, so I don’t talk about it.  But I think your observations are very insightful.
What is your favorite rest day activity?
Reading, gardening, running, BASE jumping, shampooing my dog, cleaning the house, cooking.
What’s he best book you’ve ever read?
Oh, that’s hard! I can read two books a day sometimes.  I have some favorite authors. I love TC Boyle.  I love Haruki Murakami. I love Isabel Allende and Gabriel Garcia Marques.
I love Love in the Time of Cholera.
Me too. You know what book is awesome?  Refiner’s Fire by Mark Helprin.  I love that book.
Here’s a loaded question. Why do you climb?
Right now I climb because when I don’t climb, I miss it too much.
Yeah but WHY do you miss it?
Mostly because it simply makes me feel good.  It can be a lot more involved than that, of course, but it really is that simple. But recently I have sometimes gotten sucked into BASE jumping binges, and it’s easy to let four or five days go by with no climbing. Then I feel really edgy and bummed out, and I realize that climbing is a big part of what makes me content.
You used to do a lot of alpine climbing it seemed like. I haven’t noticed as much in that arena lately. Hiatus? Done with it?
No, you’re right.  I spent a bunch of time up at the Diamond last summer, which obviously isn’t alpine climbing but is more like being in the mountains. I’ve been missing it.  I always go in cycles or phases with different types of climbing, just kind of following it.  I am missing the peaks in Patagonia again.
What cycle are you in now?
It’s the best season in Moab.  In the winter I get really excited about crack climbing here. It’s also the best season for jumping here, because the winds are more stable and calm, but I will be heading to Argentina within the year, I’m sure.
We just witnessed a horrific BASE accident a few weeks ago in Clear Creek. Have you had any accidents?
I didn’t know there was any jumping at Clear Creek.  That sounds bad. I did have an accident last August. I fractured my sacrum, and I am totally recovered, but my insurance company is denying the claim so now I am really having a hard time with it.
Bummer.
Yeah. I’m pretty sad about the whole thing. I’ve had insurance since I was living in my car, and this is the first time I’ve actually needed it.  I should have stayed in law school…
If you could only climb one route for the rest of your life what would it be?
Hmm. Tricky. I do love to repeat routes I like a lot. One route, geeze. I don’t know! It would have to be something with lots and lots of pitches, since it could only be one route. Probably Salathe.
Is there a lot of variety on that route?
Yes, so if it was the only one you got, you could be pretty content, I think. Would that mean that nobody else could climb it?  Would rangers not be allowed there? Could you jump it too?
Sure?
Okay.  Definitely Salathe. That’s actually a pretty good deal! Could I do a time share, with someone who picked Rifle?
Perhaps…You haven’t been in Yosemite in a while either just not in that zone right now?
I actually went on a clandestine um, hiking trip there last May. I didn’t climb. I just… hiked.
And how was that?
It was awesome!
By yourself
Well, sometimes I hiked with friends, and sometimes I hiked by myself.  Yeah, it was sick
Sounds wonderful. Last question. What’s something every climber should know?
The exclusions on your insurance policy.

That sounds like the best deal ever.
After that it really depends but that is the most routine that my day is, any day that I have.
It seems you have plenty of time to climb though, which I suppose is an important thing, if not THE important thing.
What I do is interact with humanity through myriad forms of communication both real/in-person and virtual. It’s climber/kayaker/mountain biker, meets life-coach, plays mad rock and roll drums, and changes lives through climbing.
Where have you been in the last 6 months?
Cusco, Peru – April 11th until April 25th
Hike the Inca trail with my brother Tommy and my Dad.

Koraro, Ethiopia – April 28th until May 18th
Work with ophthalmologist Geoff Tabin as part of the Millennium Village Project.

Silverton, Colorado – May 20th until June 4th
Play music with my band The Dust Storm incl. a show in Durango, Colorado.

Vail, Colorado – June 4th until June 8th
Emcee at the Teva Mountain Games, and play drums with the Dust Storm.

Scotland June -15th – June 28th
Sail in the North Sea on the Ezra, a 44ft cutter
Climb the Old Man of Hoy

New Zealand – July 1st until July 25th
Perform at the New Zealand Mountain Film Festival

Telluride, Colorado – August 1st – August 3rd
Attend the Chuck Kroger memorial festival and play live rock and roll.

Salt Lake City, Utah – August 8th – August 11th
Outdoor Retailer Summer Market

Holy shit.
In February I was in southern Chile in the Patagonia region climbing with Yvonne Chounaird and others and making a film. I am off to the Valley to climb for the next 5-weeks.
That’s amazing.
I am planning on climbing with my brother Sean, a T-12 paraplegic, up the NOSE on El Capitan in a hopefully sub-24-hour ascent for the first one-day ascent of El cap by a paraplegic then I climb El Cap with another brother Tommy – the Shield in 3-days and 2-nights
That’s crazy
I also am bringing up ophthalmologist Geoff Tabin, who I helped cure blindness in Ethiopia this summer.
So you have a busy schedule.
We are doing the West Face (24-pitches w some 5.11 amd a lot of 5.10. It will be the biggest climb he has ever done. I am going back to Africa with him. After the Valley I will be there until October 20th. I head south on Oct. 23rd for a week in Mexico City, Mexico where I speak at a mountain film festival and climb. Then Nov. 3rd up to Banff Mountain Film Festival for a week in Alberta to do a series of 20-podcast/videocast interviews and a slew of emcee work for the BEST mountain film festival on the planet.
I can’t imagine having that busy of a schedule.
How do you feel about the direction of climbing? Do you feel it’s headed in a good direction? Are we raising young climbers to be a new generation of environmentally conscious rock jocks? Do you think the climbing community as a whole is doing loads of good?
Climbing is one of the many activities that I participate in, and that goes for the vast majority of those that call themselves climbers, either inside or outside. The direction of climbing has always been up, literally, as we ascend the boulder or wall and metaphorically as our numbers in the community rise and our awareness of the limited resources and our need to be proactive stewards regarding access and care. Climbing is one of my interests and it is a personal and obscure venture that serves my needs to commune with mama nature and challenge myself physically and mentally in a non-conventional manner. “Never doubt that a small, group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has.” -Margaret Mead. There are a few people in the climbing community trying to make change. The rest are simply enjoying the activity and that is a very worthwhile and valuable thing.
Did you and Caroline come up with any compelling meaning in your discussion of the value of honesty in lust and love?
No.
But we really enjoyed the attempts. That is the important thing to remember; the trying is where it is. The unknown, will you make it OR not. In other words – being real with yourself and your motivations is paramount to being the same with others as well as the external representations of you i.e. your climbing project, art concept, music arrangements, job, relationships with family and friends. To bring or providing the same to others.
You have a reputation for being crazy Timmy, from panties on the summit to Paris Hilton sex tapes to every single thing I’ve seen you emcee but talking with you now I don’t get that at all. Where’s that come out? Is it just morning time?
It is me morning day and night – I am serious about being funny and over-the-top and also very serious about connecting with humanity in a substantial way that feeds my desire to help people. I love making people laugh with as much gusto as I enjoy making them feel better about a difficult period in their life be it the loss of a loved one, the loss of the leg, or the loss of their self respect. I am a serious student of life, love, laughter and living in the moment. “Live life as if you will die tomorrow and learn as if you will live forever.” -Mahatma Ghandi. I am a very public person and lend my wit and charisma to many projects i.e. films, emcee, IM interviews but some of my favorite is bringing an ailing person (whatever the ailment is) further back to health.
Is that the part of people that’s giving you this passion for humanity. Giving them something back? Bringing them up ultimately, bottom line: helping.
I am one of 7 kids and we are close and in my neighborhood we were 21 kids in a row in three houses. I am swarmed with people, need them around me, gravitate to them like the earth to sun, I interact instantly and deeply with others in order to nourish my need for truth and understanding and empathy and compassion. The other side of the sword is that nothing is sacred, sacrosanct is nonsense for me, for others sorry if I step on your blessed toes or trample on your sense of decorum, decency. I am a churl in humor and a paragon in humanity – that is the irony is that I find the humor in the hurt and expose it. I was just back in Philly visiting my family and it felt as if I was bring drawn and quartered with love, pulled by myriad arms and needs and directions.
You seem like a man with more love to give than anything. Do you find yourself able to commit yourself personally to others regularly? With your schedule and your compassion. Is it hard for SO’s to understand why you do what you do?
Had a serious SO for a number of years and now I am single, so I have the opportunity to experience different women, not necessarily as a player or anything, other than just being open. I travel and sometimes I meet someone I connect with, I am not looking for an SO but she is out there, perhaps reading these words, lurking at the coffee shop, attending the next performance of my band, who knows – life is short and I love love.
What’s the most important thing in life? In one sentence
The most important thing in life is yourself, your own health and state of mind; you are your own temple, and charity starts at home baby – give to yourself first so you can give to others. See ya.

(All photos by Caroline Treadway)