In a normal economy, dirtbag climbers tend to have pretty predictable kinds of jobs. They work construction, they serve coffee, they cut trees, they wash windows. Unfortunately, all of these sectors have been hit hard by the recession, forcing many climbers to go from “poor” to “fourth world country poor.” Fortunately, the P&C staff has been sifting through data and conducting countless hours of research to unearth job markets which are both still robust and cater towards the natural strengths of a climber.
Rumor has it that some of the boulder elite already capitalized on this a few years ago and honestly, I can’t think of a good reason not to do this. In fact, I think climbers are especially suited to the job: they have fit, toned bodies, abs to die for, are generally pretty tan, and are really really good at grunting and moaning five times louder than is necessary. The only hitch for a lot of you climbing dudes out there is that you have really small penises(why else would there be so much weenie waving on RC.com??). Fortunately, there is a cure.
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Bouldering in America is good, like, really good. Huge independent blocs dot the landscape in Bishop, mega-classic problems line up like an outdoor gym down in Hueco, Font-like Sandstone rabbit terds lurk in the deep south, and epic glass variation eliminate classics have been carved out of the Dakota sandstone in the one-horse town of Morrison, Colorado. (more…)
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You know it and I know it, onsighting is awesome! Any frat boy chode with a six-pack and shoulders can dumb down a 12a in 50 or 60 tries, however, the ability to onsight is a rare commodity. Whether your onsight level is 5.9 or 5.13, it’s always rewarding to clip the chains on a challenging onsight. A friend of ours that has proved to be a really really good onsight climber once told us “No matter how bad you fuck up, just keep climbing.” Good advice I say. Sometimes
we surprise ourselves when faced with botched sequences, big throws, or run-out climbing. Whatever the situation, onsighting is good.
Now, I’m not going dive into the nuances of what an official onsight is, I digress to other sites. However, I want a list of the best onsights in climbing history. Obviously, I am going to need some help on this one, sooooo, leave your comments below! I’ll start:
1. Okay, let’s get it out of the way, Chris Sharma, T-Rex and Divine Fury in Maple, both 14b! I mean, geez…
2. Yuji Hiryama, first person to onsight the grade of 14b, White Zombie, somewhere in Spain.
3. Patxi Usobiagi, according to Patxi’s 8a scorecard he has onsighted 28 8b+ routes, that’s 14a folks! Not only that, but he has onsighted 5 8c routes and 2 8c+ routes! That’s just dumb!
4. Alex Honnold, I know the kid has onsighted a ton, but I personally watched the dude onsight the Rincon crag from Climb of the Century to Camouflage. That includes, Climb of the Century 11c, Wendago 12a, Surf’s Up 13a, Fraid Line 13a, Free line 13b, Evictor 12d, Climb of the Century 11a, Camouflage 12c (the only “sport route”). Two day effort, it was silly. Not to mention his ridiculous Desert onsight jubilation of 2008, that was silly as well.
5. Josune Bereziartu, first 8c+ onsight by a woman! Hidrofobia 8c+, Montsant, Spain!
Well, there’s a few, I know that there are better, bolder, taller, harder, cooler and more epic onsight tales out there, so let’s hear’em!
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Name: Kathleen Cargill
Age: 24
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
If you could send any route in the next six months what route would it be?
Amazon Woman at Quartz. I have toproped it before, but I think it’s a classic route that is tons of fun with many different styles of climbing all in one route and I would love to snag the lead. (more…)
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Blah Blah Blah! Everyone’s got something to say these days. Most people over the age of 7 seem to have a blog/facebook/twitter/myspace/flicr complex. We at P&C are no different. The Social Media craze is crashing into the climbing world with a vengence! Pro Blogs, Readers blogs, Tick lists, Fan pages, and on and on and on! Don’t get me wrong, I love it. I have facebook friends from places I’ve never been too, never want to go, and hopefuly never meet, however, these “friends” know where I’m at and what I’m doing. Weird! (more…)
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