Crag Exposure: Morrison
posted by bronco
Bouldering in America is good, like, really good. Huge independent blocs dot the landscape in Bishop, mega-classic problems line up like an outdoor gym down in Hueco, Font-like Sandstone rabbit terds lurk in the deep south, and epic glass variation eliminate classics have been carved out of the Dakota sandstone in the one-horse town of Morrison, Colorado.
If you’ve been debating upon your next bouldering destination, look no further than Morrison! With over 80 problems and 945 variations to those 80 problems, Morrison has something for everyone. Whether you’re a circus clown or V14 hard(wo)man, the climbing here is, well, eccentric. With areas such as the Black Hole and The Lobby, Morrison should NOT be overlooked.
When approaching this area it’s easy to get overwhelmed by Morrison’s aesthtic nature, friendly locals, and quality stone. Have no fear, let’s break it down.
As you ascend near the crag, the Lobby is your best bet for a good warmup. To blend in with the local scene make sure your feet stay ABOVE the chalk line and NEVER mantle out these problems. As the blood starts to flow and you are getting in “the moment” drag your pads up to the Black Hole. Notably, the BH is the main “hang” at Morrison. Glean as much beta from the yokals so your flash attempt on Helicopter and Cytogrinder will be duly noted as legitimate in the official book of Morrison Eliminate Bouldering. If you’re told to keep your right pinky finger off the 3rd crimp on a problem, DO IT, or be chastised forever by the Elders of Morrison.
Literally, you can spend decades whittling out variation after variation to problems in the Hole, and people have. Why go elsewhere when the climbing at Morrison is SO good? So, now you have sweaty fingertips and a jonesin to pack the pad and get gritty in Morrison, let’s talk logistics.
Camping: N/A
Season: Summer
Eats: The Fort
Wildlife: Rattlesnakes and Urban Denverites getting there adventure on!
So, come on Down! The Morrison season is upon us, don’t miss out!
Tick List:
1. Helicopter, V5
2. Breashears Crack, V1 – 10 (depending on which holds you use)
3. Air Jordan, V5
4. Holloway’s route, V7
These are just the tip of the iceberg. Oh, there is bouldering on the South side of the road, but the approach is WAY more involved and the climbing is not near as good.
In season during summer? Really? oh wait, was that part of the joke??
Being completely serious… I cannot believe people climb at this place. It almost made me want to leave Colorado when a literal choss monger told me, “Bro! Bro! You got to keep your feet above the chalk line… It’s been there since 1972…. brah.”
All of summer’s good, but for best friction make sure to climb between 2 and 5 p.m. in July and August. The urine vapors evaporating off the soil make for better friction.
Walk across the street to Morrison South. These boulders have better texture, top outs, and aren’t contrived or eliminates. It stays pretty cool in the summer.
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