Yesterday, Finland’s Nalle Hukkataival finessed Jade, just before dark snow clouds pummeled upper Chaos Canyon with slush. Known to some as the hardest problem in the U.S., Jade was first imagined by Dave Graham in the mid 2000′s, established by Daniel Woods in 2007, repeated by Tyler Landman, Paul Robinson and now Nalle. Jade’s no roadside boulder. At the moment, the hike to upper is a snowy, postholing, sneaker-skiing adventure that leaves most people damn exhausted. Nalle’s efforts were impressive to say the least. Luckily we had two cameras rolling. Video to come!

Phil Schaal in Hartford, CT.

Phil Schaal’s been killing it recently. In the past year alone, this Connecticut climber has ticked 15 V13s, including some rare repeats of hard East Coast lines—The Book of Bitter Aspects (V13) in Bradley, Conn., Agent Orange (V13) in the Gunks, and the Chelsea Smile (V13), Ty Landman’s new sit start to Divine Providence in Lincoln Woods.

But pissing on hard blocs hasn’t come easy for Phil, who’s gone from struggling to do a single pull-up (OK that was awhile ago) to world-class send status. His secret? Pure determination.

Phil ranks Roses and Bluejays in Great Barrington, Mass., among the best problems on the East Coast. “The rock is amazing, really fine-grain granite, kinda crimpy. It’s a pretty standout line. It’s seen a lot of ascents but as far as East Coast quality it’s probably top three. Chelsea Smile you get on and it’s like ‘Ow it hurts’.”

Phil’s boulder-crushing rampage is about to pick up speed as he heads for Colorado’s high alpine gems this summer.

Phil Schaal—Bradley

C-Note: You just climbed your first 5.14, Supernova, how’s it feel?

Phil: Yeah, my first four-bolt 5.14. It was long overdue. I tried Supernova a lot like three years ago and kept falling on the last move. This time I nailed it. It felt good finally to get that confirmed 5.14.

C-Note: Yeah, you made it look pretty easy.

Phil: I was pretty stoked. I would have been upset if it felt the same as three years ago.

Phil sends Supernova in Rumney, NH.

C-Note: How did you start climbing?

Phil: I started climbing when I was 15 in the gym. I couldn’t even do a pull-up. 5.9 was a challenge. I remember just barely getting to the top of this slightly steep wall, using all the holds and stemming on the other wall, and it was only like 18 feet tall.

C-Note: So, you’ve definitely improved since then…

Phil: Yeah. I’ve definitely improved since then. The first year and a half I just climbed so much. I got the point where I could do 20 pull-ups. After two solid years I could climb 5.12. Just out of pure tenacity—it didn’t come easy.

Phil in Bradley, CT.

C-Note: So what’s the secret to your recent comeback?

Phil: I wouldn’t say a comeback, but I broke through a huge barrier last summer. I think a lot of it was strategic. I definitely feel stronger, but it’s not like night and day strength. Definitely training, strategy and conservation.

C-Note: What do you mean, conservation?

Phil: I have all these little games I play with myself, little thoughts. I try to relate the skin on my finger tips to my body’s condition. When I wear my skin down til it’s really thin, I know my body’s messed up. So, I try not to let my skin get too damaged. I limit myself to a few tries and stop when I’m still feeling fairly fresh. I try to think about the next day. When I was younger I’d just go at it and get completely devastated, not taking any body conservation into account.

Phil assessing his tips in Lincoln Woods, RI.

C-Note: What’s your mental approach to climbing?

Phil: I’m definitely hard on myself. I don’t really know why. I look for little successes in climbing to make up for the fact that I didn’t have a great success that day. I make smaller goals, just being real realistic with myself. Like today, if I don’t feel so great, but I make a move further, it’s a good day. Looking for incremental success helps me avoid negative thoughts.

C-Note: How do you train?

Phil: My training’s always evolving. There’s not one thing I ever do regularly. Lately, I’ve been climbing 4-5 days in a row with easy days in between. If I’m strategic, I can climb at my limit, fourth and fifth day on. Sixth months ago, I wouldn’t even be able to think of that. I try to do one arms, but I don’t lift weights or anything. I like to campus.  I try to keep my fingers strong on a crimpy problems. And I keep my sessions short, like two hours.

Phil in Bradley, CT.

C-Note: So you don’t really have a routine?

Phil: I kinda feel like, If you get a routine and then something’s off, it can tweak your head. Things will always be changing. I want to climb at my limit under any condition.

C-Note: I hear you’re pretty superstitious, black cats and stuff. Got any climbing rituals?

Phil: Whenever I kick my chalk bag over and chalk spills out everywhere, I usually have a decent day. Like today, I walked up to Satan’s Choice, spilled my chalk all over the slab and I had a pretty good day. I have a lot of little weird things like that. I’m constantly knocking on my forehead to make sure bad things don’t happen to me.

Phil on Satan's Choice in Rumney, NH.

C-Note: What’s your climbing diet?

Phil: I don’t skimp out things. I eat a lot of candy, I’m addicted to sugar—gummy bears, anything gummy. My favorite candy is peanut m&ms, and my favorite Cliff Bar is Banana Nut Bread.

C-Note: How do you balance climbing and real-life responsibilities?

Phil: I’ve definitely sacrificed work and academic ambitions to climb as much as I can. My credit card statement will prove that, but I still feel like it’s worth it. I guess there’s a point I might be in the poorhouse collecting welfare just so I can go climbing.

Phil on Bradley, CT.

C-Note: What about climbing and love?

Phil: My girlfriend, Nikki Keeney, and I have been on the road a lot recently—she loves climbing. When we were in Hueco was working Sex After Death and climbed some other V7s. I like watching her improve and get motivated to climb. It’s fun ‘cuz we’re both into the same thing.

C-Note: So you two are on the bust-ass/road trip cycle?

Phil: Lately we’ve been working a lot but yeah, we kinda live that work- climb, work-climb lifestyle. Having Nikki in my life is a real positive, she’s my psychiatrist when I’m stressing. She’s always there to give me the reality check I need.

C-Note: What’s your home crag?

Phil: Bradley, definitely. It’s 20 min from where I grew up. I was 16 when I started going out there, so it’s been eleven years. I’ve probably spent like 6000 days climbing there, and counting. So many, so many days.

C-Note: East Coast vs West Coast climbing—what’s the difference?

Phil: Climbing in the North East generally isn’t as open as out West. It’s definitely not as accepted in C.T. anyways. People don’t really understand rock climbing that much. I don’t know if it’s just the Hartford area. Bradley, my local bouldering spot has been closed for the past 12 years. And yeah, I’m guilty of trespassing or whatever I’m doing, but I’ll be the first one to admit it. I mean, what the fuck am I supposed to do?

C-Note: Uh, trespass.

Phil: You have to take some risks in the North East. If there’s really nice climbing right off the road and we’re not hurting anyone, sometimes we just go for it. But I guess it’s like that everywhere. And the weather definitely quite unstable.

Phil and Dan Yagmin in Rumney, NH.

C-Note: Do you prefer rope-climbing or bouldering?

Phil: I guess you could say I’m a product of my surroundings. There’s tons of bouldering here in C.T. There’s also good trad climbing that’s kind of scary. I used to guide for EMS in the Gunks. I really like trad climbing and I love sport climbing but Rumney is so far away.

C-Note: Who has influenced your climbing the most?

Phil: Climbing with Ty Landman and Nick Sherman on Robyn and Theo’s wall last year definitely made me stronger. Climbing with a bunch of different talented climbers really helps, pulling motivation, watching how other people train. In Boulder, there are a lot of people really serious about training. Climbing with Ty over the past couple years has been really motivating, but I don’t wanna give him too much credit.

C-Note: Future plans?

Phil: Return visit to Boulder looks positive. I’d like to see if I could do Jade, the Diamond would be fun too. I’d like to at least visit Rifle, never been. I just wanna kinda get back to that Rocky Mountain High.

Phil and Dan Yagmin leaving Bradley, CT.

Phil, Hartford, CT.

Interview by Andrew Tower (Wig)

Photos by Caroline Treadway (C-Note)

Let’s start with basics. Where are you from? How old are you? How long have you lived in boulder?
I am 22 years old, I was born in Boulder and I still live here (but we moved to Kansas City when I was 2 for a year).
When did you start climbing?
I was 10 and I started at the Boulder Rock Club. I took kids classes during the summer and then I joined the Jr. Team and I started doing comps.
And you’ve been shredding the Front Range gnar ever since. What’s the best crag within an hour of boulder?
Hmm. I guess for sport climbing its maybe Clear Creek. I don’t really know if I can decide. There are a bunch of smaller areas that are good. The Flatirons, the Monastery, Industrial Wall, Eldo, Boulder Canyon.
So. Just anything I guess.
Yes. There are a lot. It just depends on my mood I guess
What’s the best route you’ve ever climbed that’s 5.8 or easier?
5.8 or easier?  I cant think of anything really that easy. I soloed the 1st Flatiron. How hard is that?
5.6
It was fucking terrifying. I thought I was going to die. No good. I will never do it again, but i guess it was kinda cool…
So what are you doing with your days right now? You graduated right?
Yes, I graduated in May 2007. Now I just climb and travel and try to keep my brain busy, but its getting old. I think I need to go back to school. I like climbing but I’m not one of those people who can stay motivated when it’s the only thing I do. Daniel woods and I did a slide show in Kentucky at a high school, so now I want to do more because I’m sick of just traveling and climbing. I feel like I don’t do anything all that productive.
That sounds rad. I say do it. You have P&C’s stamp of approval.
Ha thanks. I like the idea too, and my sponsors do too. Hopefully I can organize it and make it happen.
Good. We have a reader submitted question. Someone I know wants to know if you are of Nordic descent or if he has just convinced himself you look that way.
Nordic descent? I have no idea. Maybe…
yeah…
My parents are from Holland, MI, so we have some Dutch and Irish and English I think. I’m a random mix. I’m also the only one in the family with blond hair. You have viewer submitted questions?
Actually no but Limit made a drunken comment one night and I decided to publicly poke fun at him for it. Well speaking of drinking, I hear you do not know how to go into a liquor store and buy alcohol.
I’ve been to the liquor store three times since I turned 21. I just didn’t know what kind of vodka to buy because I never drink and there were so many different kinds. I was overwhelmed.
So if you aren’t a drinker what do you do? Any vices at all?
Yes. Lots. Cookies, ice cream and sleeping pills. Not good. I have sleeping problems and I take sleeping pills and I’m trying to not, but I always cave. And the internet.
What’s your favorite website? This is an EASY question.
I don’t know if I have a favorite. Let me think.
Ahem.
I go on 8a a lot. and Facebook and the Foodnetwork and weather.com
AHEM.
Pimpin and Crimpin…duh…
Of course. So 8a, you have a card and everything?
Yeah I do. I suck right now though. I used to be good, but I haven’t been sending shit. I need to have a comeback. I need to start climbing outside again. I’m going to Spain in February with Beth so hopefully sending will occur.
I’m certain it will. What’s in between Spain and now? Why aren’t you climbing outside this very moment?
I’m trying to train for North American Championships in Montreal in 3 weeks. And in December, well, I haven’t thought that far ahead, but January is the National Championships so I will train for that too. I climbed in Eldo on Saturday though, so I’ve been getting out a little bit. I want to go the VRG in December, but I’m afraid it will be too cold for me. I suck at climbing in the cold.
A warm weather girl huh? What’s the best thing to do when it’s warm outside that ISN’T climbing?
I like running too. I ran Cross Country in 10th grade. It was hard.
The very first article I ever read in a climbing magazine was about you and Tori Allen and I think you said something about wanting to free a route on El Cap eventually. How’s that goal coming?
Haha Yes I’ve always said that. I haven’t got around to it. Hopefully someday… It’s a lot of work and preparation. I’d like to go with Beth some day. I think I will do it someday. I just need to be ready and motivated.
—-
(a bunch of boring banter about Yosemite)
—-
…but whatever we had fun I guess. Gotta screw up sometimes.
That’s how you learn. I’ve learned through my own epics
What’s the MOST epic thing that’s happened?
So many. Mostly traveling epics. I almost didn’t make it home from China. They told me I had no reservation, and I started freaking out because I almost didn’t make it there. The same thing happened. I think I actually had a panic attack and collapsed on the floor in the airport. I was exhausted and so ready to go home, and they wouldn’t give me my boarding pass and they kept speaking Chinese and I just shut down mentally and freaked out. Then these two stewardesses came and took my arms and lead me to the front of the line and gave me my ticket and brought me through security and put me on the plane. I think they just wanted to get rid of me. Another time, in Australia, our van broke down and we were stuck for two days in this little town. We ended up hitchhiking. There was a lot of crazy things in Australia.
Lets talk about boys.
Ok.
You got one right?
Yup.
Kick ass climber right?
Yeah, he’s pretty talented. He’ll go months without climbing and then be strong immediately. He lived in Philly for the last year and a half. He was working not climbing much. Now he’s on a road trip.
Do you get hit on at the crags a lot or do you think dudes are totally intimidated?
Not really. I think I’m too shy. I just don’t talk much, so even if they were I don’t respond to it. Then maybe they get intimidated or think I’m a total bitch.
Are you?
No, I don’t think so…maybe I am!
Doubtful. Maybe it’s because 9/10 times I’ve seen you climbing it’s been with your dad. No one wants to hit on a girl in front of her dad.
That’s true. Good point.
Could you actually date a non-climber?
I don’t know. I’ve never thought about it. I bet I could though. Rob and I never really climbed together. We do other stuff because he likes to boulder and I sport climb.
Typical fluffy question: what’s the very best thing about climbing?
For me, climbing is the best sport because it never gets old. There is always going to be something new. New areas, different rock, different styles. The possibilities are endless. There’s no end to the challenges. It’s not like other sports where the distance/rules/course/movement is always the same. It’s a very unique sport in that way.
Cheers to that. If time, money and experience were not a factor at all. What would be the coolest job in all of history to have?
I’ve always wanted to be in CIA, but you have to move to DC
Really. Doing what?
Covert operations. I want to know what the government is doing behind our backs, and I want to be in the know.
Oh that kind of thing.
Yes, I studied international affairs.
Where do you see yourself in five years?
I think I will probably be in Law School. That’s what I want to do right now anyway. International Law
Damn. You’re an ambitious one.
Yes I suppose. I get bored. I want to learn more. I like school. I’m a total nerd wad.

Video courtesy of Chad Greedy at Hardclimbs.com

C-note: Let’s start with the hot topic of sensory deprivation.
JK: Station.

C-note: How have you used your homemade SD chamber to achieve greatness?

JK: My parents thought I was wasting lots of time everywhere.

C-note: So, how do you make a living?
JK: I’m a professional rock climber/amateur filmmaker/hold shaper/graphic design artist/sculptor/entrepreneur. And on top of all that, an eager, young, professional at heart.

C-note: If you had a real job, what would it be?
JK: I’ve always considered becoming a secret agent or superhero—I mean that’s way more real than rock climbing.

C-note: I hear your Mom’s a professional hair stylist. What does she think about your current ‘do?
JK: “Cut the mullet…” Growing up I was always coming up with crazy hairstyles and trying to talk my Mom into cutting them for me. She usually refused. This eventually led me to move out of the house and go after my own hairstyles.

C-note: When did you start climbing?
JK: When I was like 16. But I was always climbing houses or trees. You could often find me on the rooftops.

C-note: Favorite climbing area, stateside?
JK: Can I just hypothetically say Fontainebleau?

C-note: Uh, sure. How about Europe then?
JK: Hypothetically speaking, Hueco Tanks, Joe’s Valley. Basically any good sandstone.

C-note: Everyone wants to ask you about highballs, so I’m not going to.
JK: Fine then.
C-note: No, really.
JK: Actually, my father is extremely afraid of heights.

C-note: Why?
JK: I think it’s something he acquired with age. Genetically, I’m headed down that road, too.

C-note: That sucks. Are you scared now?
JK: I’m actually super scared right now.

C-note: Why?
JK: Stop looking at me like that!

C-note: Oh, we’re not supposed to look at each other during the interview?
JK: No.

C-note: So what’s your proudest lowball?
JK: Um, you know, there are so many good lesser lines out there…I can’t even remember. It’s like each one is better than the next.

C-note: You’ve climbed in top-secret bouldering areas all over the world. What’s your obsession with first ascents? Why is that better than working a hard line with a little history?

JK: I think because you’re always going for the unknown, to see if it’s possible or not. A lot of times your only inspiration to climb is because a line is beautiful and looks crazy. It looks impossible. But it can go the other way, too. To climb something that’s really historical has a lot of power behind it, a lot of meaning.

C-note: Any classics that stick out in your mind?
JK: Definitely Midnight Lightning. The first time I walked up to it when I was a beginner, it looked unreal. You hear so much about something and then you see it. It’s crazy that you can go anywhere and see stuff like that. I mean, if you wanna play basketball, you can’t just go out and play with Jordan. It’s not like that for climbers. Anyone can climb with anyone.

C-note: Favorite first ascents?
JK: Yeah I have a bunch of them. Evilution is number one, and the Kumite in Japan.
C-note: That’s cool.

C-note: Who would win in a fight—Jason Kehl (pronounced like the vegetable) or Jason Kehl (like the bottom of a boat)?
JK: Jason Keel, ‘cuz it sounds more like “kill”.

JK: And also I found my bizarro Jason Kehl counterpart. He lives in California. He’s a realtor.
C-note: How’d you meet him?
JK: Myspace. He found me. One day I hope to meet and fight.

C-note: You’re pretty good on the stilts. How’d you get into that?
JK: Um…it all started from the Discovery channel. I watched some sort of Asian parade where everyone was on stilts, so I went down to the woodshop and built a pair and started doing it. Now i’m going to do it ’til it’s done.

C-note: Are they the same ones you use today?
JK: I didn’t use any today.

C-note: I hear you’ve been dropping mind-altering propaganda into the So Ill ads. How do you think the public will react when they find out?
JK: Uh, no comment.

C-note: Is that a bad question?
JK: No, it’s a great question.

C-note: Have you ever tried headcasting? I hear it’s fun.
JK: No, but that’s a great idea.

C-note: What’s the best part about traveling in Japan?
JK: The food and the culture. It’s very different from any other place I’ve been—the different-nicity of it.

C-note: Preferred way to die?
JK: The most painful thing I can think of. Getting all my skin ripped off piece by piece, getting pissed on by Aboriginal people, then licked raw by 25 cats. You only get to go out once, might as well make it good. I can sleep all the time.

C-note: What’s your view on global warming?
JK: I mean sure it pisses me off like the next guy. I do what I can.

C-note: Ever tried surfing? It’s the shit.
JK: No, but when I was younger, I used to boogie board ’til my nipples were raw.

C-note: That sounds painful.
JK: It actually stunted the growth of my nipples.

C-note: I’ve noticed that about you…What do you think you were in your past life?
JK: A gnarly old hermit who lived in the cliffside and pretty much did his own thing all the time.

C-note: I’m talking about past lives.
JK: DON’T QUESTION MY PAST LIVES.

C-note: Fine, but there are some similarities…Do you see yourself as the Ozzie Osbourne of climbing?
JK: I WISH I was the Ozzy Ozbourne of climbing. I think I need to put in more hard times.

C-note: Who’s the biggest asshole in the climbing community? I want names.
JK: That red-headed bastard Shane Williams, thinks he’s 100% man.

C-note: Are you pissed at him?
JK: I mean I wasn’t before that question.

C-note: Next big trip?
JK: California. “I’m goin back to Cali…”

C-note: Favorite thing to cook?
JK: I really enjoy the Bastilla—a Moroccan dish made with pigeon meat—a multi-layered pigeon pie. I substitute chicken.

C-note: Sounds yummy.
JK: It’s really involved, takes several hours.

C-note: What’s the significance of your name and how does it relate to our calendar?
JK: Let me begin. Note the significance of the months July through November, starting with their first letter.

C-note (eventually gets it): That’s awesome!
JK: It’s pretty much the only name that does that.

C-note: Impressive. You were born in the O.
JK: I’m still trying to work it all out. But yes, Oct. 18th has great significance.

C-note: Got any mantras?
JK: Suffer for it!

JK: Could you please take out that part about the Aboriginal people in the death question? I don’t want to piss them off.
C-note: No problem.