Archive for October, 2008
Whiskey Wednesday
Steven Charles on Rap Bolters from Hell 5.12a, Wichita Mtns. Oklahoma (it may be hard to see, but he is there, give me a bigger file andy!)
Welcome back kids, Whiskey Wednesday is holdin it down this week with two very deserving recipients. First off we have an original Okla-homie, Steven Charles! Steven is father, husband, friend, climbing partner, and always a great dude to hang with. Many of us have shared ropes with Steven over the years and have always had a good time doing so. This weekend he redpointed the 5.12 of all 5.12es, a little known route in Oklahoma, but for anyone that has climbed this route they most likely judge every other route of this grade that they attempt. Rap Bolters From Hell is a granite masterpiece on Lost Dome in the Wichita Mountains of SW Oklahoma. Perfect climbing! Steven, a new father, sent this past weekend and therefore we raise our glasses high in admiration and welcoming to a new member of the Rap Bolters club. Cheers bud!
Second this week, and with hardly the need for any introduction, we salute Ethan Pringle for being a bad-ass rock climber! Mr. Pringle has been unstoppable lately and has recently snagged the coveted second ascent of Iron Monkey (5.14 traditional) in Eldorado Canyon. I guess that speaks for itself. Salud Ethan! Keep up with Ethan’s latest everything here or click in the links section of our site.
Ethan holdin it down in France on Three Degrees of Separtation (14d, Ceuse)
Ethan stylin here! I found this one, thought it was way better than any gay climbing pic.
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Alpinist
Issue five of Alpinist
Okay so by now everyone has seen or heard that Alpinist is shutting down. There are people mourning it’s demise like a great fallen American hero. There are people who are pissed off that such a thing could actually happen. I borrowed some jewels from the mountain project thread:
“I feel….betrayed and……bewildered. This news saddens me to no end. I’ll have to invite that skanky whore “Climbing” back into my house, to defile my bed. Say it isn’t so. My one true love, “Alpinist”, gone. I shall cherish your back….issues.”
“too sad to comprehend”
My opinion? “EH.”
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Whiskey Wednesday!!
At first I was going to give the WW to the Alpinist (which, if you haven’t heard, has closed shop). That was until I read this thread on Mountainproject and realized that I love to hate the people who love to love Alpinist. Then I was going to give it to Alex Puccio for the shit she’s been crushing. But a minute ago, I realized that today is Wig’s birthday. How often do you get a birthday on a Whiskey Wednesday?! And since Wig was THE guy who got the crew PSYCHED about the Sundowner and the WW, I had to pay him due tribute.
All I have to say about Wig is that he is simultaneously the most irresponsible and charismatic person I’ve ever met. The guy has talked me into doing more dumb shit than anybody I know. He talked me into leading S-wall, which is 5.9, 220 feet, and 3 bolts. Jesus. He’s also talked me into doing things with my money(usually the Casino) I usually wouldn’t dream of. Allow me to illustrate.
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Yankee Doodle Dandy!!!
East Coast!!! Damn, I just ate 3 Lobsters, about to sample so local liquor and yesterday went to a local crag called Shagg! Sick! Shagg Crag may be one of the best looking condensed sport walls I have ever visited, for real! Steep climbing on bomber granite with friggin great temps and gorgeous autumn colors, can you ask for more? I was pyshced! We are headed to Rumney tomorrow! On another note, if anyone wants to finally see the 24 hour of horseshoe post, email Andrew with contemp in your words, we are all waiting Wig! Okay, more later.
This route is so legit!
Maine leaves are colorful.
I just ate this plate!
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New England…
Okay folks your dear old boy from Oklahoma, Bronco here, is headed to New England for the next 10 days for some fun in the foliage. Psyched! I guess we are hitting Shag crag and Rumney, soooooo, if anyone wants to send out some must do routes up there, I would be happy to get on’em! I ain’t never been to yankee land, so it should be fun. You can either post a comment here, email me at [email protected] or [email protected]. Giddy UP!!!!
Awesomeness incarnate
هاحهشو
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Poetry Hour
Today I received a wonderfully composed poem who wanted to remain anonymous. I say okay. this poem was just too good to leave unpublished. Check it, and hurry. 
› Keep reading
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Success and Superstition
Last week bronco told you that I’ve been doing a lot routes that we consider hard. My recent ticklist is impressive to me because it’s been swelling with routes that have felt really hard for a long time, and suddenly I’m sending them all at once and they feel relatively easy (in the big picture though, my recent ticks aren’t impressive at all. There are lots of climbers who piss the routes I’m doing). This has been a lot fun. It’s fun mostly because my friends are jealous. (At least I like to think so because I usually feel jealous of them.) I’ve had that fleeting bit of glory every sport climber yearns for. If you don’t yearn, well, you’re not as fucked up as I am. › Keep reading
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The John
In the last few years, Joe’s Valley has exploded in popularity. Although I’ve never been there, I’m willing to wager that the freedom and lack of restrictions there (compared to say, Hueco) is a key factor. That has been a key talking point of everybody I know who’s visited. Unfortunately, keeping popular climbing areas open and without a lot of redtape seems to be an uphill battle these days and human waste is one of the big problems that concern land managers, especially in high desert areas where plants grow slow and shit decomposes even slower. Last week we got an email from the the Salt Lake City climbers alliance. It turns out they’e been busy building latrines which I think is awesome. We need this kind of proactive approach in more places.
Here is the email they sent us:
Joe’s Valley (near Orangeville, Utah) has become one of the premier bouldering areas in the American West. With this popularity has come increased impact on the natural environment and has also placed strain on the relationships between land owners, climbers, and other user groups. The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance, with the help of its donors, has installed latrines at the Mansize and Buoux camping areas. The use of these latrines will help keep campsites enjoyable and also minimize our impact in the area. Latrines will be installed seasonally, depending on donations. We’re relying on you to help us maintain these latrines. Please visit our website and donate: www.saltlakeclimbers.org/donate.
More information at www.saltlakeclimbers.org
Please folks, use these things! At the very least, it’s more comfortable than squatting over a dead piece of scrub brush.
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Craggin Classik!
This weekend marks the American Alpine Center’s grandiose event right here in our very own little Golden, Colorado! With climber’s from all over the world converging on our town it should be good times for all. The even kicks off tonight with Happy Hour and other things, but let’s be honest we are only going for Happy Hour. The next two days are filled with clinics, slideshows, parties, dinners, and you may even get to rope up with one of your favorite pro climbers! Anyway we will be posting throughout the weekend to let you guys know what’s up. Let’s hope the weather holds!
CRAGGINGCLASSIC>
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