Crag Exposure: Boulder Canyon
posted by bronco
Boulder Canyon, or BoCo, as it is affectionately called in and around the People’s Republic of Boulder, is a grand granite canyon that stretches from the west side of Boulder to Nederland. With hundreds upon hundreds of rock climbs in the bowles of the canyon, BoCo is probably one of the best local crags that boulderites and denverites have within their grasp.
Everything from new school sport routes, to old trad testpieces, to bouldering and more can be found gracing the hillsides above Boulder Creek.
This was the first summer I really had a chance to spend some time in BoCo. Some of the better crags make for great after work climbing in the summer. Boco crags diversity is what makes this canyon worth visiting. Some areas offer featureless slabs, others long crack systems, and yet others host overhanging mondo grips.
As with any urban area, crowds can be a problem. Summer weekends see a huge influx of river floaters, family vacationers, and tons of climbers. However, with so much climbable rock one will not be to hard pressed to find a less populated area to climb at. Some crags that may be worth your while: Easter Rock, Bell Buttress, Animal World, Blob Rock, Stepping Stones and Plotinus Wall are all areas with high quailty routes at diverse grades.
The Must Do list:
North Face Center 5.7, Cob Rock
Cosmosis 5.9+, Bell Buttress
Mr. Sandman 5.10a, Plotinus
Country Club Crack 5.11, Castle Rock
Animal Magnetisum 5.11+, Animal World
Emipire of the Fenceless 5.12a, Easter Rock
Lucid Dreaming 5.12c, Plotinus Wall
Vasodilater 5.13a, Blob Rock
Here’s the scoop, to fit in properly when headed up the canyon here’s your necessary list of operation for a day at the crag.
The cool kids BoCo itenirary probably reads a little something like this, adapt it to your personal agenda and you may reign with Boulderite status: 9:30ish make appearance at Vic’s coffee shop, make sure to wear new American Apperal Hoodie and high-top Nike Air Force Max to show how hip you are. 10:30ish, now that you’re caffinated, pile into your ride and crank the latest Euro-Pop or Hip-Hop single that blares over the loudspeakers at The Spot. 11:00, pull up to the crag and hike to its base, but look cool doing it. 11:30, warm up on some gumbies project, “Yo brah, uh, you think I could take a quick lap on this, I’ll be outta ya way as quick as you can say BoCo.” SICK! 12:30, power up on a cig and an organic energy bar from Whole Foods. 1:00, scream and dance your way up your project. 1:22, if you are within cell range add your sick send to your 8a scorecard via your phone! 1:30, Heckle your buddies as they flail on their own projects. 3:00 Head out of the canyon and grab a XXX at the Southern/Mountain Sun. 5:00, drop by the Spot just to make an appearance and scope for climbing girls to spray down with your send for the day.
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